Hokkaido

It’s quickly approaching that time of year when Japan’s countryside, cities, parks and gardens evolve into vibrant shades of orange, red and yellow. Autumn in Japan is by far my favourite time to travel, with the summer temperatures finally cooling down, and the landscapes across the country being completely transformed. Known locally as koyo, the fall season is a popular one, with annual forecasts giving insights to an almost scientific level of detail.

One of the things I love about experiencing autumn in Japan is that it is mostly free to do. So whether you are a bucket list hunter or a budget traveller, there is always something unique waiting around the corner. Below I share some of my favourite destinations across Japan, and I welcome you to explore at a slower pace and enjoy all of the beauty Japan has to offer, from the mountains of Hokkaido to the temples of Kyoto and many places in between.

When is Best to See Autumn Leaves in 2024?

Peak autumn foliage in Japan can vary drastically depending on region and altitude, and even within the same city, it can vary a lot. I recommend checking different autumn leaves calendars by Japan Meteorological Corporation for updates.

As a general rule, autumn starts earlier the further north you are in Japan, so expect to see the first autumn break in early October in Hokkaido. Mid to late October sees the mountainous regions of central Japan come to life including Nagano, Niigata and Gifu prefectures, followed by Nikko, Yamanashi and Mt Fuji in November.

The best time to visit Kyoto and Tokyo for koyo (autumn leaves) viewing is around mid-November to early December, with Kyoto burning a deep colour of red and Tokyo’s bright yellow ginkgo stretching into the middle of December.

Where to See Autumn Leaves in 2024?

Kamikochi, Nagano

Best time to visit: Early October - Mid-November
For those who want to escape the busy cities and wander off the beaten path, Kamikochi in Nagano Prefecture is an unspoiled landscape that transforms into a kaleidoscope of colours during autumn. Flanked by the majestic Hotaka Mountain Range, the best way to experience Kamikochi's autumn beauty is by taking a leisurely hike along the Azusa River, where the reflection of the foliage shimmers on the crystal-clear waters. For an even more unique experience, more difficult hiking and multi-day trails are on offer, including Mt. Nishi-Hotaka and Mt. Kita-Hotakadake.

Shirakawa-go, Gifu

Best time to visit: Mid-October - Mid-November
Shirakawa-go is a renowned UNESCO World Heritage Site featuring thatched-roof houses, known as gassho-zukuri, which sit peacefully in Chubu Region’s Shogawa river valley. The cultural property includes three main historic mountain villages over an area of 68 hectares. For anyone looking for an extra dose of traditional Japanese culture during their autumn visit, Shirakawa-go could be the ideal choice.

Pro tip: Add an extra day onto your trip and stay in a local ryokan for an even more authentic experience.

Lake Kawaguchi, Yamanashi

Best time to visit: Late October - Late-November
Many people want to visit Hakone to see Mt Fuji during their trip to Japan; my recommendation is don’t. Lake Kawaguchiko is arguably the most special place to view Mt Fuji, and paired with the bright reds and oranges of autumn, it makes for some truly magical views. Autumn at Lake Kawaguchiko also allows visitors to experience the first snowfall atop Mt Fuji, and with plenty of luxury hotels and boutique accommodations on offer in the surrounding area, it is well worth spending a couple of days in the area and surrounding neighbourhoods.

Lake Shikotsu, Hokkaido

Best time to visit: Early October - Early November
Only a 30-minute drive away from Sapporo’s New Chitose Airport, Lake Shikotsu is tucked away within Hokkaido’s Shikotsu Toya National Park. Each fall, the lake’s entire surroundings come to life with orange and yellow autumn colours, and visitors can take the 2.5km ‘Autumn Leaves Walk’ around the lake’s outer edge to soak up the views. Fans of art and architecture will also love this area, with nearby landmarks like Tadao Ando’s Hill of Buddha, and with many lower-cost hotel options in the area Lake Shikotsu is an ideal location to add to a budget travel itinerary.

Shiretoko National Park, Hokkaido

Best time to visit: Early October - Early November
Every autumn on the northeastern corner of Hokkaido, Shiretoko National Park’s vast forests and rugged coastlines are transformed by the vibrant colours of Japanese beech trees and red maple leaves. A visit to this remote corner of Japan allows you to witness the blend of warm autumn colours against the icy backdrop of the Sea of Okhotsk. Perfect for the adventure traveller among us, the park's remote trails and serene lakes offer plenty of opportunities for momijigari (autumn leaf viewing), along with hiking trails, boat trips and other outdoor activities. Particular highlights include Shiretoko Goko and Lake Kussharo.

Nakajima Park, Sapporo, Hokkaido

Best time to visit: Early October - Early November
If you are looking for fall colours during your next city break, Nakajima Park in the heart of Sapporo City bursts to life with bright yellow ginkgo and red Momiji leaves in the autumn season. In the centre of the park is a huge pond, crisscrossed by bridged walkways and providing a serene mirrored view of the foliage and cityscape in the background. Nakajimakoen offers a peaceful respite from Sapporo’s busy Susikino District, making it an ideal spot for a leisurely morning stroll or afternoon picnic.

Kenroku-en Garden, Kanazawa

Best time to visit: Mid-November - Early December
Known as one of Japan's "Three Great Gardens," Kenroku-en's meticulously landscaped terrain comes alive with an explosion of autumnal colours. The iconic maple trees, particularly the crimson Momiji trees, create a vivid contrast against the tranquil ponds and traditional teahouses. Pro tip: Head to Sazaeyama, a tall hill within the gardens overlooking the Kasumi-ga-ike Pond, offering serene perfect panoramic views of the pond and surrounding area.

Arashiyama, Kyoto

Best time to visit: Late November - Mid-December
On the western outskirts of Kyoto, Arashiyama is widely known for its bamboo groves and Togetsukyo Bridge. Take a stroll along the Katsura River and witness the beauty of the surrounding mountains and forests filled with autumn colours. Other highlights in the area include the serene gardens of Tenryuji Temple and Kameyama-kōen Park. Combining the essence of traditional Japanese culture and the beauty of autumn scenery, Kyoto can be one of the most special experiences for your next Japan trip.

Kodai-ji Temple, Kyoto

Best time to visit: Late November - Mid-December
Kodai-ji Temple’s zen-inspired landscapes, complete with stone pathways, bamboo groves, and mirror-like ponds, come alive with the vibrant colours of autumn and offer a serene addition to any Kyoto itinerary. Located at the foot of Kyoto’s Higashiyama Ryozen Mountains, the temple offers a towering mountain backdrop to the calm temple setting, and with a mix of traditional architecture and teahouses throughout the temple, it is a great place to experience traditional Japanese culture and craftsmanship.

Kiyomizu-dera, Kyoto

Best time to visit: Late November - Mid-December
One of the most celebrated temples in all of Japan, Kiyomizu-dera is well worth visiting during the autumn season. The showstopper here is the 13-metre-high wooden stage, offering panoramic views across the temple with Kyoto Tower as its backdrop alongside a sea of colourful maple trees.

Pro tip: Visit Kiyomizu-dera for the ‘Autumn Illumination’ to experience the full effect of the autumn scenery lit up at night time between November 18th - November 30th 2024.

Fall Festivals and Illuminations

Throughout Japan, there are many traditional festivals and events held during the autumn months. In late October, Kyoto residents celebrate the Jidai Matsuri, where huge processions of portable mikoshi shrines, samurai-clad locals, and traditional music performances take to the streets. Also, Sapporo’s Autumn Festival, held each year in Odori Park during the last three weeks of September, offers a taste of the best of Hokkaido's regional cuisine including fresh crab and miso ramen.

Many shrines and temples across Japan also host popular illumination events, offering a unique way to experience the autumn scenery at night. Favourites include Tokyo’s Rikugien Gardens (mid-November), Kenrokuen Garden (mid-November) and many temples across Kyoto including Toji Temple, Kenninji Temple and Ninnaji Temple (late November).

Tips & Tricks for Visiting Japan During Autumn

1. Plan Ahead – Autumn is a popular season for tourism in Japan, so plan your itinerary and accommodation well in advance.
2. Check Peak Foliage Times – Japan's autumn foliage varies by region and altitude. Research and check when leaves are at their peak in the specific areas you plan to visit.
3. Pack Light – Autumn weather is milder than you might think, so pack clothing in layers so you can adapt to changing temperatures throughout the day.
4. Stay in Ryokans – Many Ryokans are located in scenic areas, providing beautiful views of the autumn foliage.
5. Use the Japan Rail Pass – If you plan to travel between cities, the Japan Rail Pass can save you money on transportation. (Note the recent changes to JR Pass as of October 1st 2024).
6. Enjoy Seasonal Cuisine – Autumn brings a variety of seasonal dishes made with mushrooms, sweet potatoes, pumpkin and seasonal sweets like chestnut yokan.
7. Respect Local Customs – Be mindful of local customs and traditions, especially if you visit temples or shrines.
8. Travel Light – Japanese streets and attractions can be crowded during autumn, so travel with minimal luggage to make it easier to navigate through crowds and public transportation.
9. Use Google Translate – Download a translator app to help you navigate Japan, translate signs, and find nearby restaurants and attractions. Google Maps is also perfect for getting around.
10. Shoot shoot shoot – Always carry a camera or smartphone to capture the beauty of the fall foliage and don’t forget to challenge yourself to avoid the obvious ‘iconic’ scenes.

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If you’re anything like me, then after your first trip to Japan, you’ll probably be reassessing your life and thinking about how you can return to spend longer in the country. In 2019, I did exactly that. After visiting during spring that year, I absolutely fell in love with Japan and made it my goal to start a new life in the country I had become so fascinated by.

When I decided to take the plunge in October 2019, the first city I actually moved to was Sapporo in the northern prefecture of Hokkaido. This is where I would spend the next six months, exploring the vast landscapes of Hokkaido, eating my body weight in miso ramen and making a start on what would become my new life.

In 2020, I moved to Tokyo, eventually moving between a few different neighbourhoods – Takadanobaba, Yutenji, Sangenjaya and Nakameguro – each with their own unique draws and characteristics. Each of these cities offers something special, making them great options for anyone considering a longer stay in Japan. For more on exploring Japan’s diverse locations, check out my Kanazawa Travel Guide and Ultimate Japan Itinerary for First Timers.

Here are my top-ranked Japanese cities to live in for your next expat adventure.

Tokyo

Tokyo is the ultimate in convenience and modernity. The city boasts cutting-edge technology, a robust expat community, and countless job opportunities across various industries. Tokyo’s abundance of co-working spaces and cafes makes it an ideal location for remote workers and entrepreneurs. The city offers diverse housing options, from modern apartments to traditional homes. Tokyo’s excellent public transport system, top-notch healthcare, and educational institutions add to its liveability. The city is also home to stunning architecture, beautiful parks, and rich cultural institutions, ensuring there’s always something to explore. For more insights into Tokyo's neighbourhoods, see my Tokyo Neighbourhoods guide.

Sapporo

Sapporo, located in Hokkaido, offers a unique blend of urban and natural attractions. Known for its distinct seasons and long winters perfect for snow sports, Sapporo is a haven for outdoor enthusiasts. The city’s connection to nature extends beyond its borders, providing ample opportunities for hiking and exploring Hokkaido’s vast landscapes. Sapporo’s food scene is exceptional, with local delicacies like miso ramen and fresh seafood. The city has a smaller expat community, which can be beneficial for those looking to immerse themselves in Japanese culture and improve their language skills. For more on Sapporo and Hokkaido’s charms, make sure to check out my latest guidebook.

Fukuoka

Fukuoka, a vibrant city in Kyushu, is renowned for its commitment to sustainability and quality of life. The city offers excellent job opportunities, particularly in the technology and creative sectors. Fukuoka’s compact size and efficient public transportation make it easy to navigate, while its proximity to the rest of southern Japan allows for convenient travel. The city’s food culture is also noteworthy, famous for its yatai (food stalls) and fresh seafood. Fukuoka’s blend of urban living and access to nature makes it an attractive option for expats. For more details on what Fukuoka has to offer, see my full Fukuoka guide.

Osaka

Osaka is a dynamic city known for its youthful energy and relaxed atmosphere compared to Tokyo. The city offers a vibrant arts scene, creative industries, and exciting nightlife, making it a hub for the younger generation. Osaka’s affordability and diverse job market make it an appealing choice for expats. The city’s excellent public transportation, rich cultural heritage, and delicious street food add to its charm. Whether you’re exploring historic sites like Osaka Castle or enjoying the modern attractions of Dotonbori, there’s always something to do. Is Osaka worth living in 2025? I’ll let you decide!

Kyoto

Kyoto, with its traditional culture and slower pace of life, offers a unique living experience. The city is renowned for its historic temples, serene gardens, and traditional tea houses, providing a deep connection to Japan’s cultural heritage. Kyoto’s emphasis on quality of life is evident in its clean streets, excellent public services, and numerous parks. The city’s slower pace and strong community feel make it ideal for those seeking a more relaxed lifestyle. Despite its traditional roots, Kyoto also offers modern amenities and job opportunities in various sectors. For a deeper dive into Kyoto’s unique charm and alternative experiences, discover 50 Things to Do In Kyoto.

Visas & Job Opportunities

Japan offers several visa options for foreigners, including remote work visas, student visas, and the highly coveted Permanent Resident status. For those looking to work in Japan, there are opportunities in numerous fields beyond teaching, such as IT, finance, engineering, and the creative industries. The Highly Skilled Professional visa is particularly attractive, offering a fast track to permanent residency. Networking and joining local expat communities can also provide valuable job leads and support. For more on planning your move or your next trip to Japan, Views from Japan features over 280 individual destinations and experiences.

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Why travel to Japan for a honeymoon? A trip to Japan offers a blend of long-standing cultural traditions and once-in-a-lifetime experiences, making it a perfect destination for celebrating newlyweds. From serene landscapes to world-class hospitality, Japan provides a unique backdrop for a romantic getaway.

Whether you’re planning a first time Japan itinerary or deciding what type of accommodation to book, below are ten of my favourite honeymoon hotels for your special occasion.

Six Senses Kyoto

Newly opened in the heart of Kyoto, Six Senses offers a serene retreat amidst historical temples and gardens. This hotel combines contemporary design with traditional Japanese aesthetics. The on-site spa offers rejuvenating treatments using locally sourced ingredients, perfect for unwinding after a day of exploring Kyoto’s cultural treasures. Dining at Six Senses Kyoto is an exquisite affair, with a focus on seasonal and locally inspired dishes, ensuring an unforgettable culinary journey.

Book Six Senses Kyoto

Bulgari Tokyo

For a fully luxurious stay, Bulgari Tokyo boasts stunning city views and opulent interiors. The spacious suites are elegantly fitted with designer Italian furniture and details by local craftsmen. Couples can indulge in world-class dining at the hotel’s signature restaurant, featuring a menu crafted by renowned chefs. The exclusive spa and wellness centre provides a calming escape from the city, with treatments designed to pamper and rejuvenate.

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The Ritz-Carlton Fukuoka

Overlooking the picturesque Hakata Bay, The Ritz-Carlton Fukuoka blends contemporary style with traditional Japanese hospitality. The spacious rooms and suites are elegantly furnished, featuring panoramic windows to frame the waterfront scenery. Couples can enjoy fine dining at the hotel’s restaurants, which highlight local ingredients and culinary traditions. The on-site spa provides a range of treatments designed to relax and revitalise, perfect for unwinding together.

Book The Ritz-Carlton Fukuoka

Aman Tokyo

Located in the central financial district, Aman Tokyo offers panoramic views of the Imperial Palace Gardens and Mount Fuji in the distance. The minimalist design creates a calming ambiance, ideal for couples seeking a tranquil escape. The rooms and suites feature floor-to-ceiling windows, traditional Japanese elements, and modern Aman luxuries. The hotel’s renowned spa offers holistic treatments and a serene indoor pool. This urban retreat promises a serene and luxurious honeymoon experience.

Hoshinoya Tokyo

This ryokan-style hotel combines modern luxury with traditional Japanese hospitality. Each floor features its own ochanoma lounge, where guests can relax and enjoy complimentary teas and snacks. The rooms are elegantly designed with tatami mats, sliding shoji screens, and luxurious amenities. The onsen baths, fed by natural hot springs, offer a relaxing and rejuvenating experience. Hoshinoya Tokyo’s curated kaiseki menu features seasonal ingredients and is a culinary journey not to be missed.

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Azumi Setoda

Azumi Setoda elegantly preserves the legacy of the 140-year-old Horiuchi-tei estate, once home to the influential Horiuchi Family, renowned salt barons of Ikuchijima island. The rooms, crafted from cedar, cypress, washi, and granite, reflect a contemporary interpretation of sukiya style, providing a cosy atmosphere with the option of double or king-size beds. Dining experiences are a culinary journey that highlights the rich flavours of the Setouchi region. Chef Akita sources ingredients from within a 50 km radius, ensuring the freshest local produce.

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Amanemu

Located in the picturesque Ise-Shima National Park, Amanemu offers a secluded and serene remote experience. This resort features spacious suites and villas with private onsen baths and stunning views of Ago Bay. The design is inspired by traditional Japanese ryokan, with minimalist interiors and natural materials. The on-site restaurant offers a farm-to-table dining experience, showcasing the region’s fresh seafood and produce. The spa, with its extensive range of treatments and serene setting, provides the perfect escape for relaxation.

Zaborin Ryokan

Zaborin Ryokan redefines the ryokan experience with a blend of contemporary and traditional Japanese hospitality. Set in Hokkaido, this award-winning retreat merges modern comforts with the meditative essence of classic ryokans. Each villa features private onsens, infused with natural hot spring water, offering unparalleled relaxation amidst the surrounding birch forests. Rooms are thoughtfully designed with options for 'washitsu' or 'yoshitsu' sleeping arrangements and some include additional tatami spaces for families.

Hoshinoya Karuizawa

Experience the height of culinary artistry with Hoshinoya Karuizawa’s alpine kaiseki, where regional ingredients are skillfully prepared to highlight sophisticated flavours. Start your day with a Japanese breakfast, featuring nutrient-rich broth made from a medley of vegetables, ensuring a nourishing and gentle start. The wellness program at Hoshinoya Karuizawa emphasises hot spring healing and forest bathing, providing a restorative escape from the hustle of daily life. Enjoy serene forest walks and invigorating hot spring baths, while deep breaths of fresh mountain air refresh both body and mind.

Book Hoshinoya Karuizawa

Experience

Learn Sumi-e Ink Painting From a World-Renowned Artist

At THE CELLAR Toranomon Main Store, a renowned wine shop in Tokyo, acclaimed sumi-e artist Tsuchiya Shukou guides you through the graceful techniques of Japanese ink painting. As you create your own expressive piece, enjoy carefully selected seasonal wines in an experience that blends creativity, culture, and sophistication.

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If you’re dreaming of your next trip to Japan, consider venturing beyond the well-trodden paths of Tokyo and Kyoto to explore the unspoiled natural beauty of my favourite prefecture: Hokkaido.

From the seafood markets of Sapporo to the vast landscapes of Shiretoko National Park, join me as we spend 7 days exploring the natural wonders, city heights and active volcanoes of Japan’s northernmost island.

Itinerary Highlights

Nijo Market, Sapporo – Dive into Sapporo’s seafood scene at Nijo Market. Stroll through family-run stalls, sample fresh crab, and don’t miss the market’s signature seafood bowls.

Lake Shikotsu, Hokkaido – Cruise across Lake Shikotsu’s crystal-clear waters. Surrounded by mountains, this caldera lake is one of Japan’s deepest and clearest.

Jugokudani, Noboribetsu – Experience the otherworldly landscape of Jugokudani, with sulfuric hot springs and dramatic steaming vents.

Shirogane Blue Pond, Biei – Discover the shimmering beauty of Shirogane Blue Pond. A short walk through a forest leads you to this hidden lake with its striking blue waters.

Shiretoko Goko, Shiretoko National Park – Explore the pristine waters of Shiretoko Goko’s five lakes, perfect for spotting wildlife, including bears and deer.

Day 1-3: Sapporo

Kick off your Hokkaido adventure in Sapporo, Japan’s fifth largest city. Wake-up for fresh daily catch at Nijo Market, where you can sample fresh crab, sea urchin, sashimi and more. Unwind with a leisurely stroll through Nakajima-koen, with scenic paths and a reflecting pond – especially good in the autumn months. For a bird's-eye view, head to the Sapporo TV Tower, perfect for sunset.

Highlights

Nijo Market: Dive into Sapporo’s seafood scene at Nijo Market. Stroll through bustling stalls, sample fresh crab, and don’t miss the market’s signature kaisendon seafood bowls.

Sapporo TV Tower: For panoramic views of the city from above, head up the Sapporo TV Tower. Overlooking Odori Park, it’s the perfect spot to see the city’s skyline and surrounding mountains.

Nakajima-koen: Escape to Nakajima-koen for a dose of nature. This peaceful park offers picturesque ponds, a traditional tea house, and serene walking paths.

Day 3–4: Noboribetsu & Lake Shikotsu

Next, visit Noboribetsu for its geothermal wonders and natural hot springs. Walk amongst the boiling sulfuric springs of Jigokudani Hell Valley and experience true relaxation at a traditional ryokan. Don’t forget to indulge in a local kaisendon (fresh seafood bowl). Next, make a beeline for Lake Shikotsu, one of Japan’s clearest and deepest lakes, ringed by rolling hills and mountains.

Highlights

Jugokudani (Hell Valley): Experience the otherworldly landscape of Jugokudani, where sulfuric hot springs and steam vents create a dramatic and unforgettable scene.

Lake Shikotsu: Cruise across Lake Shikotsu’s crystal-clear waters. Surrounded by mountains, this caldera lake is one of Japan’s most scenic spots.

Kaisendon Bowls: Treat yourself to an indulgent kaisendon, a seafood bowl featuring fresh, local catch. A must-try for any seafood lover.

Marukoma Onsen: Soak in natural hot springs at Marukoma Onsen. This lakeside retreat offers stunning views and a relaxing atmosphere.

Day 4–5: Biei & Furano

Continue your journey to the picturesque towns of Biei and Furano. Visit the shimmering Shirogane Blue Pond and nearby Shirogane Waterfall, located just outside the hot spring town of Shirogane Onsen. For a touch of adventure, hike up the active Mt. Furano volcano, where you can enjoy panoramic views and witness the steamy volcanic activity up close.

Highlights

Shirogane Blue Pond: Discover the shimmering beauty of Shirogane Blue Pond. A short walk through a forest leads you to this hidden lake with its striking blue waters.

Shirogane Waterfall: Visit Shirogane Waterfall for a stunning natural spectacle. Close to Shirogane Onsen, it’s a perfect stop for nature lovers.

Mt Furano: Hike into the hot springs of Mt Furano. This active volcano offers challenging trails and breathtaking views of the surrounding landscape.

Day 5–7: Shiretoko National Park

Please note: There have been several bear sightings throughout summer 2024. Please make sure to check all safety requirements and act with caution when hiking in Hokkaido. For more information on how to deal with wild brown bears, click here.

Conclude your Hokkaido exploration in the remote Shiretoko National Park, a UNESCO World Heritage site. Spot wild bears and explore the pristine lakes via the well-maintained hiking trails of Shiretoko Goko. Delve into the rugged terrain of Mt. Io, an active volcano known for its steaming sulfuric vents. And wrap up your trip with a breathtaking sunset at Cape Puyuni.

Highlights

Shiretoko Goko: Explore Shiretoko Goko’s five lakes. These pristine waters are perfect for spotting wildlife, including bears and deer.

Mt Io: Enter the geothermal wonderland of Mt Io. The steamy, sulfuric vents offer a fascinating glimpse into volcanic activity.

Cape Puyuni: End your day at Cape Puyuni, where you can watch the sun set over the ocean, casting a golden glow on the rugged coastline.

Where to Stay

Hoshino Resorts Kai Poroto

Set on the edge of Lake Poroto, the 42-room ryokan blurs the line between man-made structures and the forested surroundings. Its unique bathhouses, inspired by ancient Ainu villages, occupy a cone-shaped structure with outdoor and indoor baths. Rooms have striking white birch columns, fireplace inspired tables and Ainu-patterned artworks. Local seafood informs the dinner menu, with dishes such as fragrant daigo nabe, a hotpot teeming with stewed crab and scallops.

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Best Time to Visit

The best time to visit Hokkaido for many travellers is during the summer (July to September) and autumn (October to November). Summer in Hokkaido is a refreshing escape from Japan’s humid mainland, with cooler temperatures perfect for exploring. Autumn brings an epic display of foliage across Hokkaido, with places like Sapporo and Noboribetsu transforming into a palette of reds, oranges, and yellows. While Hokkaido is famous for its winter sports and the Sapporo Snow Festival, the summer and autumn months provide equally memorable experiences, with milder weather and untouched natural beauty.

Getting Around

The easiest way to access Hokkaido is via direct flight to New Chitose Airport. Flights operate daily from Tokyo and Osaka, taking around 1.5 hours. From here, I recommend car rental or a private car service. For a trip to Eastern Hokkaido, car hire is pretty much essential – trains and buses run infrequently and can certainly slow you down.

Discover Hotels In Hokkaido

Affiliate Disclosure: This post contains affiliate links. By purchasing via these links we may earn a small commission at no additional cost to you. We only promote hotels and experiences that we personally trust. Thank you.

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In Japan, where architecture and hospitality are deeply intertwined, some hotels go beyond aesthetics to create a true sense of place. From a 140-year-old ryokan in the Seto Inland Sea to a glass-fronted retreat overlooking Mount Fuji, these seven stays embody thoughtful design, cultural depth, and seamless integration with their surroundings.

Azumi Setoda, Hiroshima

On Ikuchijima, an island shaped by the Seto Inland Sea’s shifting tides, Azumi Setoda occupies a former merchant’s home with 140 years of history. The restoration is precise—wooden lattices filter the light, tatami rooms open onto a quiet courtyard, and the hinoki-lined bath carries the faint scent of cypress. The surrounding town, once a key stop on Japan’s historic trade routes, moves at a slow rhythm. Guests slip into this pace effortlessly, whether cycling the Shimanami Kaido or soaking in the adjoining sentō, a public bathhouse revived alongside the hotel.

Hoshino Resorts Kai Poroto, Hokkaido

Framed by Hokkaido’s dense forests and the still waters of Lake Poroto, Hoshino Resorts Kai Poroto is a study in restraint. Low, timber-clad buildings with wide eaves open toward the lake, their quiet interiors designed for slow mornings and long evenings. Inside, volcanic spring water fills Sankaku-no-yu and Maru-no-yu, their cone-shaped structure inspired by ancient Ainu villages. The hotel’s design draws from the traditions of the Ainu, Hokkaido’s Indigenous people, with handwoven patterns and carved motifs woven subtly into the space. Outside, mist drifts across the lake, and the scent of the surrounding forests sharpens with the cold.

Trunk Hotel Yoyogi Park, Tokyo

Overlooking the treetops of Yoyogi Park, Trunk Hotel invites the outside in. The design, winner of Architectural Digest 2024 AD Great Design Awards, is quietly refined: raw concrete walls meet rich wood paneling and linen–a place to feel tucked away in the heart of the city. Floor-to-ceiling windows frame a view of the park’s greenery, offering moments of calm amid the city’s constant hum. Inside, each space feels open yet welcome, with carefully chosen pieces—neutral colour furniture, local art—anchoring the interiors without overwhelming them. The rooftop, home to an infinity pool, offers an exclusive view of Yoyogi Park for its guests.

Genji Kyoto

Hidden on the banks of the Kamo River, Genji is a study in quiet elegance. Each of the 19 rooms is anchored by tatami mats and floor-to-ceiling windows, paired with views of the river, city, or tsubo garden. Every detail, from the carefully chosen furniture to the soft lighting, creates a sense of openness without excess. A small courtyard, framed by the building’s clean lines, offers a rare moment of stillness. This is a place where design and nature coexist seamlessly, allowing the surrounding city to fade into the background.

Simose Art Garden Villa, Hiroshima

Nestled along Hiroshima’s rugged coastline, Simose Art Garden Villa is a masterclass in modern, minimalist design. The villa's open-plan design frames expansive views of the Seto Inland Sea, blurring the line between indoors and out. Follow the winding pathways and you’ll find Shigeru Ban’s floating galleries and a retreat where nature and design work as one. Inside, minimalist interiors are punctuated by contemporary art, each piece carefully positioned to play off the changing light.

Shiroiya Hotel, Gunma

Once a long-standing inn, Shiroiya Hotel has been transformed into a bold architectural statement in the centre of Maebashi. The original structure, a timber frame of over 300-years-old, is reinterpreted with raw concrete walls and tactile, understated furnishings, creating a striking contrast between past and present. Inside, the hotel feels like a living gallery, with artwork from Michele de Lucchi, Jasper Morrison, and Leandro Erlich displayed throughout. The open atrium, flooded with natural light, creates a spacious, almost meditative atmosphere amongst brutalist concrete architecture.

Hoshinoya Fuji, Yamanashi

Set against the backdrop of Lake Kawaguchi, Hoshinoya Fuji, embraces its natural surroundings with cabins built from wood and glass. Japan’s first ever glamping resort’s design is minimalist—clean lines and simple furnishings frame uninterrupted views of Mount Fuji. Large windows bring the landscape indoors, while private terraces offer a direct connection to the surrounding forest and lake kawaguchi. Designed by Rie Azuma, very detail is meant to enhance the quiet experience of being immersed in nature, whether it’s a soaking tub overlooking the lake or the calm of the surrounding wilderness.

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Japan has 47 prefectures which span an incredible range of landscapes and cities, where you can experience everything from snowy peaks to volcanic hot springs, paradise islands and undisturbed wilderness.

Many regions are tied closely to weather, such as the Japanese Alps, popular for snowsports in winter, or Okinawa’s coral reefs, where tourists normally head in summer – each prefecture has its own charm throughout the year. You can explore ancient forests and preserved villages without the crowds or visit national parks in season to see wild brown bears; whichever month and region you choose, Japan’s wild and varied landscapes promise adventure in all seasons.

January: Nagano

January is the perfect time to head to Nagano, known for its dramatic mountain ranges, which are carpeted in deep snow at the start of the year. Nagano is popular for snowsports opportunities thanks to its fame from hosting the 1998 Winter Olympics, but this prefecture has more to offer, including the snow monkeys in Jigokudani Yaen Koen and the beautiful Nakasendo Way hiking trail. It’s also worth exploring the cities of Nagano and Matsumoto themselves, where you can find the famous Matsumoto Castle, Togakushi Shrine and Zenkoji Temple.

Pro tip: Don’t miss a visit to Tsumago, one of the best-preserved Edo-period towns in Japan to see the authentic ryokan and Minshuku lining the streets.

Check out the latest deals and availability for hotels in Nagano.

February: Okinawa

February may not be an obvious time to plan a visit to Okinawa, but this is exactly why it’s ideal. The weather is mild and clear, and there are far fewer tourists, so although the waters are cooler, you can discover the soft, white sand beaches without the crowds and visit off-the-beaten-track spots. Places not to miss include Ishigaki Island, which has some of Japan’s best beaches, jungles and mangrove forests. From here, it’s an easy high-speed trip to Iriomote Island, home to UNESCO-protected jungle, caves and waterfalls where you can spot the rare Iriomote wildcat.

Pro tip: For an adventure few know about, Taketomi Island hides just three tiny villages with Ryukyu houses and cute local cafes and boutiques, perfect for a slice of traditional Japanese life.

Check out the latest deals and availability for hotels in Okinawa.

March: Tokyo

Any month is a good month for Tokyo; however, catching sight of the pretty pink sakura in bloom is an experience like no other. Although you might face some crowds, particularly in popular blossom-watching areas like Shinjuku Gyoen, to get a taste of the real Tokyo, make sure to wander around its many neighbourhoods. You can find equally stunning views of the blossoms in Nakameguro while exploring this artistic neighbourhood's cafes, bars, and shops. You can also escape into nature in Kichijoji, which is filled with serene parks and independent boutiques.

Pro tip: The fortnight when cherry blossoms bloom is one of Tokyo’s busiest times, so book dining and experiences ahead of time and explore away from the central, busy areas when you can.

Check out the latest deals and availability for hotels in Tokyo.

April: Kyoto

Kyoto is equally beautiful in April when the sakura comes out in a dozen pastel pinks, and the historic former capital has lots to discover in the mild April weather. Why not escape the crowds and experience some of Kyoto’s alternative activities on offer, including a visit to The Garden of Fine Arts, designed by Kengo Kuma, or sample the freshest green tea at Wazuka Tea Farm. Temples and shrines, such as Kodai-ji Temple and Yasaka Shrine, are particularly photogenic when surrounded by blossoms. For the best view over the city, get up high at K36, a rooftop bar offering panoramic views in the heart of the city.

Pro tip: Although Kyoto city is the most famous place to go, don’t forget that the prefecture has other stunning areas such as Uji and Miyama.

Check out the latest deals and availability for hotels in Kyoto.

May: Setouchi

Setouchi is Japan’s most creative region and is packed with plenty to see, with most people drawn here to see the eclectic mix of beauty and nature in Naoshima and the art islands. Naoshima, and its neighbouring island Teshima, hold incredible artworks by renowned artists, such as the yellow pumpkin by Yayoi Kusama, and pieces by James Turrell and Lee Ufan. Benesse House doubles as a hotel and museum, with designs by Tadao Ando and an amazing mix of indoor and outdoor installations that blend into the landscape, while at Teshima Art Museum, light, wind and sound are used to create an immersive experience.

Pro tip: The best way to get around at your own pace is by renting electric bikes to explore all of the free art installations, cafes and restaurants.

Check out the latest deals and availability for hotels in Kagawa.

June: Niigata

Niigata is popular for skiing in the winter, particularly on the slopes of Myoko Kogen, a volcano home to Japan’s oldest resort. But the warm June weather brings its hiking trails, hot springs and stunning coastal scenery to life and visitors can see lush rice terraces in Tokamachi, get into nature on Sado Island and try the seafood and sake for which the region is famous. There’s also Echigo Tsumari Art Field, which is 760sq/km of outdoor space dotted with unique artwork by notable creators, which blends into the surroundings and uses the local buildings and schools as part of the artwork.

Pro tip: Try and catch the Echigo Tsumari Triennial in 2024, which is taking place between 13 July–10 November, when hundreds more artworks will be added to the area.

Check out the latest deals and availability for hotels in Niigata.

July: Wakayama

When Japan’s peak summer hits, the best way to avoid the heat is to seek respite in nature. Wakayama is the country’s spiritual heartland, home to the ancient temples of Koyasan and the Kumano Kodo pilgrimage trail, a thousand-year-old path that winds through mountains and forests. Along the way are sights like Nachi Waterfall, Japan’s tallest waterfall and Kumano Hongu Taisha, one of the region’s three most sacred shrines. Nearby, you can find the cherry red Seiganto-ji Temple and Kumano Hongu Taisha, fronted by Japan’s tallest torii gate.

Pro tip: Summer is a great time to hike the Kumano Kodo, but the weather can change as you climb, and it can get wet when you walk through the forests, so wear breathable clothes and sturdy shoes.

Check out the latest deals and availability for hotels in Wakayama.

August: Aomori

If you’re trying to escape August’s heat, heading north to Aomori means discovering unspoiled wilderness, lakes, mountains and unrivalled contemporary art and architecture. The natural landscapes and coastline produce Japan’s best apples and seafood and boast UNESCO-listed sites like the ancient beech forest of Shirakami-Sanchi, while the geology is volcanic, meaning hot springs are abundant. In summer, the main city of Aomori hosts Nebuta Matsuri, a huge festival of light featuring lanterns, floats and dancers and elsewhere in the city lies Towada Art Center, one of Japan’s best contemporary art spaces.

Pro tip: If you plan to watch the Nebuta Matsuri, there’s plenty of free and reserved seating with tickets available from convenience stores.

Check out the latest deals and availability for hotels in Aomori.

September: Kagoshima

As the summer heat begins to cool, the scenic islands, ancient forests and dramatic volcanoes in Kagoshima become alluring and colourful. Start with Amami Oshima, a subtropical island with soft sandy beaches and mangrove forests you can explore by kayak. The island of Yakushima is equally impressive, where you can hike to the Ohko-no-taki Waterfall, which is voted one of the most beautiful falls in Japan. Also on the island is Yakusugi Land, a protected landscape rich in ancient yakusugi trees which has a variety of hiking paths venturing into the wilderness.

Pro tip: If you’re visiting Yakushima and Amami Oshima, you won’t want to miss the rugged hikes, so bring hiking gear and waterproofs, as the weather can be wet even in September.

Check out the latest deals and availability for hotels in Kagoshima.

October: Hokkaido

As the early autumn scenery begins to burst into colour each October, it’s time to explore the untouched countryside in Hokkaido. For fiery foliage, don’t miss Shiretoko National Park, home to brown bears, mountain landscapes and sparkling lakes, such as Lake Mashu, the clearest lake in the world. Find contrast in the city of Sapporo, where Nakajima Park offers respite from the crowds and is filled with art, teahouses and a Japanese garden. To dive further into the city’s art scene, Sapporo Art Park features a museum, studio, craft classes and exhibitions that change with the seasons to both admire and create art.

Pro tip: If you’re a photography enthusiast visiting Shiretoko, don’t forget to take a telephoto lens to capture the best photos of the wildlife from a safe distance.

Check out the latest deals and availability for hotels in Hokkaido.

November: Ishikawa

Ishikawa Prefecture is steeped in history, art and crafts which can be enjoyed as the weather starts to cool and the autumn leaves flood through the cities, parks and gardens. The major city of Kanazawa is Japan’s craft capital and is filled with unique Edo-period wooden buildings. Throughout November, the bright red and orange autumn leaves are splashed across Kenrokuen Garden, and hidden down these streets are artisans crafting gold leaf creations, bamboo baskets and samurai swords, while Kazuemachi Chaya is the city’s tea district, one of the best spots to visit a private geiko teahouse.

Pro tip: Kanazawa is home to some of the last private geisha teahouses and there’s no entry without an introduction, known as ichigensan okotowari, so book in advance to ensure you don’t miss out.

Check out the latest deals and availability for hotels in Ishikawa.

December: Fukuoka

Although Japan has some of the world’s best skiing regions, there’s far more to be enjoyed in the country in winter than snowy peaks. In Fukuoka, a harbour city on Kyushu, lie some of the region’s most spiritual temples and shrines, tranquil parks and local food. Tochoji Temple is one of the city’s most striking buildings, a tiered red pagoda home to ancient Buddhist artwork, and just outside the city, Dazaifu Tenmangu Shrine has stood for 1000 years dedicated to the Heian-period scholar Michizane. On the outskirts of the city is perhaps its most breathtaking sight, Nanzoin Temple, where the world’s largest bronze reclining Buddha statue towers over the surroundings.

Pro tip: Fukuoka is also well-known for its food scene, so make sure to stop by the city’s yatai (open-air food stalls) to try yakitori, oden and the famous ​​Hakata Ramen noodles in pork broth.

Check out the latest deals and availability for hotels in Fukuoka.

Affiliate Disclosure: This post contains affiliate links. By purchasing via these links we may earn a small commission at no additional cost to you. We only promote hotels and experiences that we personally trust. Thank you.

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For the culturally curious and open-minded travellers amongst us; or for those looking to have the most unique and memorable trip possible, the Golden Route won’t always cut it. Step away from the crowds, delve deeper into the cultural & historical side of the country, and design an unforgettable journey with this two-week Japan itinerary.

Visiting Japan for the first time? Don’t forget to check out my Ultimate Two-Week Itinerary for First Timers for a few more of the classic big hitters.

Intermediate Itinerary Highlights

Noboribetsu Jigokudani, Hokkaido – A steam covered, volcanic paradise, where sulphur vents and hot springs surround you.

Tomigaya, Tokyo – Here you’ll find specialty Scandinavian coffee shops, alongside independent boutiques.

Higashi Chaya District, Kanazawa – Machiya‑lined streets and Edo Period teahouses make up this well preserved geisha district.

Valley Gallery, Naoshima – Walk up the long path to the gallery and find artworks by Yayoi Kusama and more.

Dazaifu Tenmangu Shrine, Fukuoka – For over 1000 years the shrine has stood in dedication to learning, culture, and the arts.

Days 1–4: Hokkaido

Start your journey in Japan’s northernmost prefecture; a nature-lovers paradise, Hokkaido experiences Japan’s longest winters and most beautiful autumn leaves. Enjoy unspoiled nature across many of the island’s national parks and rural landscapes including the Daisetsuzan National Park, Shiretoko National Park and Shikotsu-Toya National Park.

Highlights

Sapporo: Grab a bowl of steaming miso ramen, take a stroll through Odori Park, and finish your day off on the busy streets of Susukino with a world-famous Sapporo Beer. If you’re passing through in winter, make sure to visit the annual Sapporo Snow Festival.

Shirogane Blue Pond: This shimmering blue pond is located just outside the hot spring town of Shirogane Onsen. The pond is around a 5-minute walk through a small forested area and is nicely hidden away from the crowds.

Lake Shikotsu: Just one hour from Sapporo city, Lake Shikotsu is one of Japan’s clearest and deepest lakes, ringed by rolling hills and mountains. The lake sits within Shikotsu-Toya National Park where adventure awaits: paddle, cruise or scuba on the lake, or on land, make the one-hour hike to the active volcano, Mount Tarumae.

Noboribetsu Jigokudani: Roughly translated to ‘Hell’s Valley’, Jigokudani is a steam-covered, volcanic walkway, where sulphur vents and hot springs surround you. The landscape and town are covered by lush foliage and the area has a dedicated walkway for exploring the valley and local guides on hand to share more information.

Upopoy National Ainu Museum: Since the Ainu were officially recognised as an indigenous people in Japan, the country has been dedicated to preserving and celebrating their culture in various ways. Visitors at Upopoy can experience traditional Ainu arts, dancing and musical performances, such as the mukkuri (mouth harp) and tonkori (five-stringed instrument).

Getting Around

The easiest way to access Sapporo and surrounding areas is to take a direct flight to Hokkaido’s main international airport, New Chitose Airport. Flights operate daily from international hubs around the world. For domestic routes, Tokyo takes around 1.5 hours, and Osaka, takes around 1 hour and 45 minutes. From here, public transportation is available between the airport and Niseko resorts, however, I recommend car rental or a private car service.

Ready to go? Browse a full selection of Hokkaido hotels here.

Days 4–8: Tokyo

A city that needs no introduction, I have had the pleasure of calling Tokyo my home for almost five years – it simultaneously makes perfect sense and no sense at all. Come for the bright lights and stay for the Michelin-starred restaurants, architectural wonders and calming suburbs. I challenge you to forgo some of the big hitters and take a slower approach across some of the quieter neighbourhoods, art museums and traditional shopping streets.

Highlights

Kappabashi Kitchen Town: A stretch of road almost a kilometre long, expect to find professional pizza ovens, shokuhin sampuru, intricately designed traditional Japanese knives, and stacks upon stacks of Japanese ceramics and pottery.

Yanaka: A neighbourhood full of quaint edo-period wooden buildings that have been brought back to life - coffee shops, galleries, and restaurants peacefully take up residence inside these old dwellings. SCAI the Bathhouse, a particularly well-known venue for contemporary art and the kissaten Kayaba Coffee are both popular spots in Tokyo’s historic downtown district.

Nezu Museum: Designed by Kengo Kuma and opened in 1941, the Nezu Museum is home to over 7,000 pre-modern Asian and Japanese Art objects. Finish off your trip by exploring the extensive Japanese garden through the back, a welcome retreat from a day’s exploration of Tokyo.

The National Art Center Tokyo: Designed by the renowned architect Kisho Kurokawa in 2007, The National Art Center Tokyo is a striking gallery space in the heart of Tokyo intending to advance Japan’s understanding of art. With three floors flooded with natural light and a giant inverted cone made from cement, this free-entry venue the building itself is something to behold.  

Shimokitazawa: A neighbourhood filled with vintage fashion boutiques, vinyl record stores, and perhaps the best soup curry in the capital city at Sama. Recent developments include Bonus Track, an outdoor courtyard project featuring pop-up galleries, bookshops and bars.

Getting Around

After arriving in Tokyo via plane from Hokkaido, the city is one of the most accessible destinations in the world, with a network of trains connecting almost every corner. The best way to travel around quickly is via the Tokyo Metro which covers central Tokyo. There are also six main JR train lines running through the city. To head further afield, shinkansen (bullet trains) run from Tokyo to most major cities in Japan. Tickets are easy to navigate - just use a prepaid IC card or consider day passes for busy travel days.

Ready to go? Browse a full selection of Tokyo hotels here.

Days 8–10: Kanazawa

Known as Japan’s Craft Capital, Kanazawa gives you a taste of ancient Japan, where geisha tiptoe through softly lit alleyways to private teahouses, and samurai culture reigns supreme. If you are looking for a dose of traditional Japanese culture and architecture, minus the Kyoto crowds, then Japan’s Craft Capital could be the ideal stop off point. Particular highlights include the Edo-period Higashi Chaya Geisha District, and Omicho Market to sample some of the region’s local seafood delicacies.

Highlights

Higashi Chaya District: First established in 1820, Higashi Chaya District is one of three small geisha districts in Kanazawa. Don your traditional Japanese kimono and join others as you walk the Machiya-lined streets and Edo Period teahouses, once frequented by rich merchants and nobility.

Kenrokuen Garden: Classed as one of Japan’s top three landscape gardens (alongside Mito’s Kairakuen and Okayama’s Korakuen), Kenrokuen in Kanazawa is a garden celebrated for its ambience and tranquil design.

Samurai Sword Making: Kanazawa has strong roots in Japan’s samurai era, with a dedicated historic samurai district, as well as museums and restaurants dedicated to the ancient art. Those who want to take the samurai experience to the next level can enjoy a private samurai demonstration and class to learn the sword-making process from start to finish.

Geiko Teahouse: The epitome of Japanese hospitality, geisha dedicate their entire lives to mastering traditional Japanese arts. Home to just five remaining private teahouses, Kanazawa is the ideal place to experience this tradition first-hand. Limited numbers of guests are permitted each evening, so plan ahead.

21st Century Museum of Contemporary Art: Designed by Japanese architects Kazuyo Sejima and Ryue Nishizawa of SANAA, the 21st Century Museum of Contemporary Art is filled with work from local and international artists. Particular exhibits worth viewing are Leandro Erlich’s ‘Swimming Pool’ as well as James Turrell’s ‘Blue Planet Sky’.

Getting Around

Arrive at Kanazawa Station by the Hokuriku Shinkansen, which can be used for swift travel to and from major cities like Tokyo and Kyoto. Due to its modest size, Kanazawa can easily be explored without the use of local transport or a car, and if you’re looking for a slower way to view the area, the charm of Kanazawa's traditional neighbourhoods and renowned gardens are both easily accessible on foot or by bicycle.

Ready to go? Browse a full selection of Kanazawa hotels here.

Days 10–12: Naoshima

Fans of all things art and architecture will be well-versed with Naoshima Island and neighbouring Teshima Island by now. Japan’s southern art islands are packed with artworks by some of the world’s most influential contemporary artists including Yayoi Kusama and James Turrell. As well as the majority of the galleries being designed by the legendary Tadao Ando, it is an unrivalled destination to experience art, architecture and nature work in harmony.

Highlights

Valley Gallery: Tadao Ando’s ninth building, Valley Gallery marks 30 years since his very first on the island. The concrete-walled and steel-roofed building is designed to allow natural light to alter the space throughout the seasons and preserve the surrounding valley and trees at the same time.

Naoshima Pavilion: Located just a few metres away from the ferry port, Naoshima Pavilion acts as the symbolic 29th island of Naoshima. Visitors can enter the ‘floating’ white mesh structure while the sights, sounds, and smells of the surrounding coastline gently stimulate their senses.

Lee Ufan Museum: Enclosed between Benesse House and Chichu Art Museum and set to a calming backdrop of the Seto Inland Sea, the Lee Ufan Museum is dedicated to showcasing the art of this Korean-born painter and sculptor. You’ll find artworks made from concrete, iron, and stone in both the indoor and outdoor spaces and paintings from Ufan’s earlier years.

Naoshima Art House Project: What began in 1998 with just a single house, currently comprises seven different locations. Empty and derelict houses are turned into works of art that encompass the area's history, culture, and memories of past habitation.

Teshima Art Museum: The water droplet-shaped Teshima Art Museum is a one-of-a-kind meditative experience. The creative visions of artist Rei Naito and Pritzker Prize-winning architect Ryue Nishizawa have come together to build something truly special. Take a moment and be at peace with the wind, light, and sounds that present themselves.

Getting Around

Naoshima can be accessed from major hubs of Kanazawa, Kyoto, Tokyo and Osaka by taking the JR Tokaido or Sanyo Shinkansen to Okayama Station, followed by a ferry directly onto the island. Whilst on Naoshima, I recommend hiring electric bikes for a comprehensive way to explore the island (and to get up steep hills). With an ebike, you can easily access remote areas and fully experience Naoshima's art installations and natural scenery at your own pace.

Ready to go? Browse a full selection of Naoshima hotels here.

Days 12–14: Fukuoka

Experience the cultural side of Japan’s ‘Gateway to Asia’ in Japan’s southern Kyushu region. During the day, Fukuoka – known locally as Hakata City – offers traditional tea ceremonies and Buddhist temple visits. By night, the city transforms into a vibrant centre for nightlife and street food delights, including Hakata tonkotsu (pork bone) ramen at one of the city’s many yatai food stalls. These stalls pop up every night, offering a glimpse into the region’s unique dining and street culture.

Highlights

Dazaifu Tenmangu Shrine: For over 1000 years the shrine has stood in dedication to learning, culture, and the arts. As the head of 12,000 Tenjin shrines nationwide, it’s well worth a visit.

Yatai Food Stalls: From savoury yakitori skewers to piping hot bowls of tonkotsu ramen, enjoy the lively atmosphere and authentic flavours of Fukuoka's beloved yatai.

Nanzoin Temple: Recognised for its 11m tall and 41m wide reclining Buddha, Nanzoin Temple is one of the most visited in the area. Take the short hike from nearby Kido Nanzoin-mae Station over the ‘Melody Bridge’ and up into the surrounding forests. Give the feet a rub, make a wish, and place your coin in the offering box.

Yanagawa: Known as the ‘City of Water’, almost 600 miles of canals interweave amongst traditional Japanese homes. Enjoy a private kawakuadori (river cruise) while sampling a seasonal breakfast or famed Yanagawa steamed eels while boatmen recite Meiji-era poems.

Getting Around

Fukuoka is one of the most convenient and easily accessible destinations in Japan, with daily flights entering from many Japanese airports including Tokyo, Kansai and Sapporo, as well as a short distance from neighbouring South Korea and China. The high-speed Shinkansen will take you from Okayama (as well as Tokyo, Kyoto or Osaka) to Hakata Station, and both the airport and central train station are a short distance from the main city. To explore wider Fukuoka Prefecture, car rental is recommended to access the more rural sights and experiences.

Ready to go? Browse a full selection of Fukuoka hotels here.

Do I Need a JR Pass?

There is always much debate surrounding the Japan Rail Pass. Advertised as an affordable, cost-saving way to get around Japan, the pass can be used for periods of seven, fourteen or twenty one days to travel freely on many Shinkansen and local trains. Unfortunately, with the new increase of price on the pass (almost 40% in some cases),  it is no longer really worth it unless you are planning to travel every couple of days across your trip. This particular itinerary will involve air travel as well as train travel and so I do not recommend the JR Pass for this trip.

When is the Best Time to Visit?

Japan has four major seasons, each offering something unique for your next trip. Spring (March-May) is widely known for Japan’s iconic sakura season, attracting crowds to the more popular areas. Summer (June-August) is hot and humid in the major cities but can be a perfect time to head north to the mountains or south to experience the islands of Okinawa Prefecture and beyond. Autumn (September-November) is by far my favourite time to visit and sees Japan turn into a sea of red, yellow and orange. Winter (December-February) offers world-class snow conditions for winter sports and unrivalled mountain adventures.

Affiliate Disclosure: This post contains affiliate links. By purchasing via these links we may earn a small commission at no additional cost to you. We only promote hotels and experiences that we personally trust. Thank you.

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When I moved to Japan in 2019, I quickly became obsessed with all types of Japanese folk crafts and traditions. Over the years, I’ve had the honour of meeting some of the nation’s most treasured ‘Shokunin’, from sword-makers in Kanazawa to silk weavers in Fukuoka, and glass makers in Chiba to kimono artisans in Kyoto.

A true Shokunin is someone who dedicates their life to mastering their craft, it’s an elite standard of self‑discipline and a personal responsibility to preserve their tradition for future generations. Come with me as we explore seven destinations and their most respected craftsmen.

Kanazawa: Japan’s Craft Capital

Known for its well-preserved Edo-era districts, art museums, and traditional handcrafts, the capital of Ishikawa Prefecture is a fantastic place to see historic Japanese crafts in practice. Just two hours away from Tokyo, Kanazawa feels like a million miles away from neon-clad streets and ever-busy salarymen.

Among the Machiya-lined streets, you’ll find a dedicated historic Samurai district. Those looking to learn the entire sword-making process from start to finish and even order one for themselves will find everything they need in Nagamchi, Kanazawa. Having painstakingly created swords over the last 20 years, Matsuda Sensei is the only master swordsmith in Kanazawa and the best place to visit to understand the art of Japanese sword-making.

Drive an hour into the misty mountains surrounding Kanazawa, and you’ll find one of just 100 contemporary bamboo artists left in Japan. Chifuyu Enomoto has dedicated the last 50 years of his life to handweaving bespoke products including bowls, containers, and tea trays.

Check out the latest deals and availability for hotels in Kanazawa.

Discover Traditional Crafts In Kanazawa

Toyama: Mingei Mindset

Take the Hokuriku-Shinkansen half an hour northeast of Kanazawa and you’ll get to Toyama, a coastal city home to Kumekazu Shimatani, a third-generation craftsman who’s spent much of his life dedicated to the art of crafting Buddhist orin gongs - small bronze bowl-shaped bells used to mark the beginning and end of meditation sessions.

Shimatani’s work is exhibited up and down the country at Buddhist temples - an acknowledgement that his relentless pursuit for perfection has paid off. Those who visit his studio in Toyama will not only have the opportunity to see a master craftsman at work, but you’ll also be able to try your hand at creating some of your very own suzugami tin tableware.

Check out the latest deals and availability for hotels in Toyama.

Hokkaido: Indigenous Culture

While most people are familiar with Hokkaido for its world-class winter sports, Japan’s northernmost region has a rich history of traditional crafts. Most notably, the incredibly intricate wood carvings from the Ainu. Among other things, a visit to the Upopoy National Ainu Museum shows just how important crafts were to the Ainu People and their culture.

Sculptures, Statues and crockery have all been intricately carved by men for generations. One master craftsman, Toru Kaizawa, has been wood carving for the last 50 years - working to preserve this Ainu tradition. Visitors to Upopoy National Ainu Museum have the opportunity to experience a number of these crafts up close, with a dedicated studio that offers lessons on both wood carving and embroidery.

Pro tip: Hoshino Resorts Kai Poroto is the hotel to stay at if you’re visiting the Upoypoy National Ainu Museum

Kyoto: Tradition Meets Innovation

Cobbled alleyways in downtown Gion, immaculately manicured temple gardens, and geisha tip-toeing through the empty streets at dawn. It’s the quintessential image of traditional Japan, and ancient crafts are visible around every corner.

In a sleepy corner of Kyoto, you’ll find Kitamoto Sengei, a master craftsman of surihikita - the time-honoured tradition of Yuzen dying. It takes years of practice and a steady hand, and masters of the craft can make highly intricate patterns and unique designs for kimonos, folding fans, and Japanese textiles.

Kyoto is also the home of ‘hybrid craftsman’ Shinji Sekizuka, who specialises in creating high-end hakimono (Japanese footwear), and specifically zouri (sandals). Sekizuka’s workshop gives visitors the chance to browse his delicately hand-crafted wares and watch a master at work.

Check out the latest deals and availability for hotels in Kyoto.

Discover Traditional Crafts In Kyoto

Chiba: Glass Blowing Masters

Located just 40 kilometres east of Tokyo, Chiba is home to the world-renowned glassware company Sugahara Glass. Since its inception in 1932, its artisans have been handcrafting glass products using traditional Japanese techniques in an attempt to reveal the natural beauty of the material.

With 92 years of experience, these master craftsmen and women have been working out of a studio based in Kujikuri to create everything from tumblers and plates, to vases and other products for modern living. If you’re interested in gaining a deeper understanding of Japanese glass-blowing techniques, few places will compare.

Check out the latest deals and availability for hotels in Chiba.

Miyagi: Kokeshi Folk Crafts

Passed down through the generations, Sakurai Kokeshi in the heart of Miyagi Prefecture is a family-run studio that’s home to the makers of Kokeshi dolls. While the dolls themselves were originally used as children's toys, they have since become symbols of good fortune, bountiful harvests, and stand as an appreciation of traditional craftsmanship.

Like many locations on this list, you’ll have a chance to both watch a shokunin at work and also get involved yourself. You’ll be able to paint the doll under the guidance and tutelage of a master and experience an ancient Japanese tradition from those who know it best.

Check out the latest deals and availability for hotels in Miyagi.

Fukuoka: Kimono Masters

A traditional technique of dying invented by Inoue Den in c1800, kurume kasuri (also known as ‘ikat’) is now used in a wide range of Japanese goods including interior products, clothing and bags. The colours are hand-crafted and the patterns are soft and gentle in nature. Shimogawa Orimono, a weaving factory in Yame-city, Fukuoka, is the best place to see this age-old craft in practice.

Fukuoka is also home to a kimono silk manufacturing company called Nishimura Orimono, founded in 1861. A world-class weaving shop, Nishimura Orimono continues to make and sell some of the country's most beautiful traditional textiles such as obi, yukata, and kimono.

Check out the latest deals and availability for hotels in Fukuoka.

Affiliate Disclosure: This post contains affiliate links. By purchasing via these links we may earn a small commission at no additional cost to you. We only promote hotels and experiences that we personally trust. Thank you.

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Japan boasts hundreds of hot spring ryokan, each with its own fascinating history and cultural significance. Set on the edge of Lake Poroto and enfolded in forest, this 42-room ryokan convincingly blurs the line between man-made structures and the bucolic surroundings.

If you’re looking for exceptional design, and luxury inspired by local tradition, the Hoshino-owned KAI Poroto is the hotel to visit.

The Offer

Kai Poroto isn't just a uniquely designed Japanese hotel, it also pays ode to the country’s very beginning. Its bathhouses, Sankaku-no-yu and Maru-no-yu, are inspired by ancient Ainu villages, filled with mineral-rich water, and occupy a cone-shaped structure with outdoor and indoor baths.

The retreat’s contextual design extends to the rooms too, which each have striking white birch columns, fireplace-inspired tables and Ainu-patterned artworks. Local seafood informs the dinner menu, with dishes such as fragrant daigo nabe, a hotpot teeming with stewed horsehair crab and scallops. Ainu-inspired dishware also accompanies each meal.

The Location

As suggested by its name, KAI Poroto is in a prime spot overlooking Lake Poroto which means exceptional views are a given. While the hotel feels like it's in the middle of nowhere, that’s in no small part thanks to a unique design created by Hiroshi Nakamura and NAP Architects. The ryokan is still within easy access to a number of attractions worth visiting, notably the Upopoy National Ainu Museum and Park and the nearby onsen town of Noboribetsu

Who is it For?

If you’re someone who respects distinctive design intertwined with history and culture, KAI Poroto is calling your name. If you’re anything like me, stepping from inside the turrets to the outside and experiencing the sun rise over a steamy Lake Poroto is bound to be one of your highlights.

Top tip: I stayed in the Western-style Suite RB2, one of only 3 rooms in the hotel with an outdoor bath and terrace overlooking Lake Poroto.

Sustainability

Co-existence with nature at this ryokan is apparent around every corner. Whether that comes in the form of taking a morning soak in one of its two bathhouses, or the meticulous design that sees the outside being brought inside (like the white birch columns stationed throughout), sustainability is of paramount importance.

Kai Poroto uses moor springs, otherwise known as the “springs of beauty”, derived organically from plants and the natural surroundings. Kaiseki course dinners are on offer, showcasing a wealth of Hokkaido’s rich ingredients including locally sourced salmon roe and sea urchin.

Hoshino Resorts also works in close partnership with the town of Shiraoi to protect and preserve the coexistence of indigenous Ainu communities, working together to allow guests to experience Japan’s ancient ethnic groups.

Important Information

How to get there

Car: The hotel is about 40 minutes by car from New Chitose Airport and 65 minutes from Sapporo.
Train: The closest station (JR Shiraoi) takes around 1 hour 30 minutes from Sapporo, and is 10 minutes away on foot from the hotel.
Check-in / Check-out: 3:00 PM / 12:00 PM
Number of Onsen: 2
Pets: Allowed
Contact: Kai Poroto

1--1018-94 Wakakusachō, Shiraoi District, Hokkaido 059-0902
Find out more via hoshinoresorts.com

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Japan has a rich and diverse cultural history, and while standard sightseeing trips might forgo visits to such places, delving deeper into the country’s past is a fantastic way to understand more about what makes it so unique. Not only will this keep your trip interesting, but it’ll also keep that part of history alive.

One such location that pays homage to Japan’s beginning is the UPOPOY National Ainu Museum. Whether you’re taking a road trip through Hokkaido or just passing through, at a little over 1 hour by train from Sapporo, the UPOPOY National Aunu Museum is an easily accessible slice of Japan’s indigenous past.

UPOPOY National Ainu Museum

The ancient people who were the first inhabitants of Hokkaido, the Ainu have a diverse, rich heritage that spans centuries. The Ainu have faced well-documented struggles throughout their long history, and in present-day Japan, population numbers are low; however, recognition of the Ainu as indigenous people, along with the opening of museums and cultural centers, such as the National Ainu Museum, continues to celebrate Ainu culture and allows visitors to learn more about their fascinating way of life.

Since the Ainu were officially recognized as an official indigenous people in Japan, the country has been dedicated to preserving and celebrating their culture in various ways, much of which is focused on UPOPOY.

Visitors can experience traditional arts, dancing, and musical performances, such as the mukkuri (mouth harp) and tonkori (five-stringed instrument), which are designated parts of Japan’s UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage. You can also try classic Ainu dishes, visit a reproduction of a kotan, and learn more about their daily life in the open-air National Ainu Park.

Crafts & Culture

Crafts have always been a key aspect of Ainu culture for both men and women. Sculptures, statues, and even crockery were all intricately carved from wood by Ainu men. Women would embroider linens in beautiful designs, craft musical instruments, and make clothing out of animal or fish skin. At UPOPOY, visitors can experience a range of craft activities, including cooking classes and musical instrument workshops, while the dedicated craft studio offers lessons on wood carving and embroidery.

The Library & Theatre

As two of the most important parts of the UPOPOY National Ainu Museum, the Library (Kampisos nukar tumpu) and the Theatre are must-see areas. The Library holds numerous academic papers, a vast collection of photographs, and other resources that give visitors the chance to explore the story and history of the Ainu people. The Theatre, with a changing timetable, is for those who prefer something more visual.

The Exhibition Room

Spanning 30,000 years of history, The Exhibition room is the perfect place to start your tour of the site. It introduces the history and culture of the Ainu through a number of objects and artifacts which together tell the story of the Ainu people through their Language, Universe, Lives, History, Work, and Exchange.

Top Tip: Grab an audio guide if you’re interested in learning the specifics of each piece and its significance to the Ainu people.

Important Information

Opening Times: See Timetable
Closest Station: JR Shiraoi Station (15-minute walk) (trains run once or twice per hour)
Cost: ¥1,200 (Under 15’s enter for free) (Payment at ticket desk or convenience store)

2-3 Wakakusacho, Shiraoi, Shiraoi District, 059-0902

Ainu-upopoy.jp

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Japan is a land of contrasts; a place where old and new exist in perfect harmony. In major cities, ancient temples stand tall next to neon-clad karaoke bars, and in the remote countryside, the clunk of a high-tech vending machine is never too far away. You wouldn’t be at fault for thinking about a hyper-futuristic nation, packed with bustling bright cities and bullet trains, but what some don’t realise is that 70% of the country is made up of volcanoes, mountain ranges, and nature-rich countryside.

An ideal place to experience the extent of this natural landscape is the largest and most northern prefecture: Hokkaido. Taking up a huge 22% of Japan’s landmass, to say Hokkaido is vast would be an understatement. From active volcanoes simmering quietly in the mountainside, and oceans freezing over in winter’s sub-zero conditions, to indigenous Ainu culture dating back hundreds of years and some of Japan’s most diverse wildlife, it’s easy to see why Hokkaido has attracted nature-lovers and adventurers from all over the world.

Please note: There have been several bear sightings throughout summer 2024. Please make sure to check all safety requirements and act with caution when hiking in Hokkaido. For more information on how to deal with wild brown bears, click here.

If you are looking for a contrast to Japan’s major cities, Hokkaido has heaps to offer. The far eastern side of the island especially remains largely undiscovered, with the Shiretoko National Park being one of the island’s greatest examples of untouched wilderness.

Known as the ‘Home of the brown bear’, the Shiretoko region is one of the most idyllic places to see these majestic mammals in the wild, alongside over 285 bird species, 35 land and 22 marine species. As brown bears peruse the coastline and whales dive deep into the ocean waters, come with me as I share my highlights from my three-day adventure to the edge of the world: Shiretoko National Park, Hokkaido.

Day 1

Arrival at Memanbetsu Airport

Day one started with an early morning flight from Tokyo’s Haneda Airport to Membanbetsu. Located on the eastern side of the island and just one of Hokkaido’s impressive 12 airports, Memanbetsu is the most convenient arrival port. From here, we picked up our rental car and took the 2-3 hour drive into the peninsula, with a few stop offs along the way.

Road to the Sky

Literally translating as ‘The Road to Heaven’, 天に続く道 or the ‘Road to the Sky’ is a 28km stretch of straight road running from Memanbetsu Airport into Sharicho Town. Driving along the road we were treated to plenty of crisp autumn scenery, multiple viewpoints, and the area’s friendly bear mascots. The road itself is more of an unofficial attraction of the area, but offers panoramic landscapes and ocean views.

Shiretoko Goko

Known as the ‘Shiretoko Five Lakes’, Shiretoko Goko is a great way to experience the untouched nature of the area, as well for spotting wild bears. After a short safety lecture, learning the do’s and don’ts of a bear encounter and how to treat their environment with respect, we received our entry passes and were good to go. The route also features an 800m long elevated boardwalk and mountain observatory, offering 360º views of the surrounding landscape.

Discover more lesser-known destinations, bucket list experiences and unique hotels in my brand new guidebook, Views from Japan.

Cape Puyuni

Located along the roadside towards the Shiretoko Goko is Cape Puyuni, an ideal spot to watch the sunset over the Sea of Okhotsk. If you are visiting earlier in the day be sure to take a look at the Utoro Fishing Port and see local fishermen catching some of the area’s world-famous salmon. In winter, this is where you can catch the first sightings of frozen drift ice approaching in the ocean.

Day 2

Iwaubetsu River

If you are lucky, and safely prepared, you might catch a glimpse of a wild bear or two during your stay in Shiretoko. We had passed a particular spot along the Iwaubetsu River the previous day, and returned after seeing some local photographers gathering. We got set up, with no real hope, but there he was - the most stunning creature I have seen, a wild brown bear. We couldn’t believe our eyes, and still now I’m in awe of seeing a bear like this out in nature.

Shiretoko Pass

At an elevation of 738m, the Shiretoko Pass provides even more panoramic views from the island. Connecting Utoro and Rausu towns, the pass is a great place to stop off and enjoy the autumn leaves from across Mt. Rausu.

Cape Utoro

Utoro acts as the main gateway between the small onsen towns and the completely wild areas of Shiretoko. We stopped for coffee at one of my Hokkaido favourites, Baristart (complete with friendly bear logo) at the Shiretoko National Park Nature Center and took a short hike out to the coast. Here you can find a small observation deck and views of the local fishing boats across the Sea of Okhotsk.

Day 3

Lake Kussharo

Located in the neighbouring Akan Mashu National Park, Lake Kussharo has a whopping 57km circumference and is the area’s largest. As well as activities including fishing, hiking trails, kayaking, and cycling, be sure to keep your eye out for natural hot spring baths along the lake’s edge. Driving further around the lake you can find multiple higher viewpoints if you wanted to see the vast expanse from above.

Lake Mashu

Another caldera lake in Akan Mashu National Park, Lake Mashu holds the title of the ‘Clearest Lake in the World’. The lake itself is an endorheic crater lake formed by volcanic activity and is much smaller than its neighbour Lake Kussharo. For one of the best views of the lake, be sure to look out for the Ura-Mashu observation deck, one of the lesser-known viewpoints.

Mount Io

Also known as ‘Sulfur Mountain’, Mount Iō really is a sight to behold; with volcanic sulfurous vents pumping out hot steam and creating bright yellow rocks in the process. The mountain offers multiple hiking trails as well as a gift shop selling, you guessed it, volcano-cooked eggs.

Tips & Tricks for a Visit to Shiretoko National Park

1. Hire a car or arrange pre-booked transportation – Highly recommended for making the most of your trip
2. Take home your rubbish and be respectful of the pristine nature
3. Be prepared to wander off the beaten track – But watch out for bear signs
4. Take necessary safety precautions – The Shiretoko Goko lecture is a great place to start
5. Carry a zoom lens – This will ensure your best view of the wildlife, whilst keeping a safe distance.

Best Time to Visit

Shiretoko really can be enjoyed all year round. During winter, the epic drift ice starts to approach the oceanfront. Spring sees the colours bring the peninsula to life, with 100s of types of flora and fauna. In summer the heat is mild and this is when the bears are most likely to be seen. And finally autumn has unrivalled foliage, adding a whole new dimension to any visit up to the north of Japan.

Getting Around

Having access to your own transport is highly recommended to make the most out of a trip to Eastern Hokkaido, be that a hire car or arranged personal transport. Trains and buses run infrequently and can certainly slow you down. We flew into Memanbetsu Airport and took around a 2-3 hour drive each way between Shiretoko Goto and Lake Kussharo.

Japan’s northernmost prefecture might be known for its harsh winters and extreme terrain, but combine that with some of the world’s best powder snow and an influx of international tourists every winter, it’s easy to see why Hokkaido has attracted some of the biggest names in luxury hospitality.

Opened in January 2020, Park Hyatt Niseko is the third Japanese property from Park Hyatt, and has already swept up awards including World’s Best New Ski Hotel and the IDEA Interior Design Award for 2020. In the new Hokkaido-based property, local culture is celebrated through art, design and cuisine. Nature abounds and is embraced throughout all four seasons. And hotel staff, residences and guests create a genuine and warm experience. It’s definitely one to add to your Japan bucket list.

Designed by Melbourne-based BAR Studio, the concept celebrates Japanese crafts and natural materials; inspired by the warmth of an alpine lodge and the craftsmanship of a Japanese villa. Guest rooms have a homely feel with living and dining spaces separated by timber screens referencing Japanese shoji paper. Residences follow a similar format, with added kitchen facilities, private open-air onsen and balcony areas.

The architecture itself has been designed in response to the mountain, and each of the hotel’s 100 suites and 113 branded residences gently carves around the ski slope itself, offering clear views of the iconic Mt Yotei and celebrating the pristine natural surroundings.

Public areas follow in Park Hyatt’s signature sophisticated style, with original works from Japanese artists Akira Minagawa and Nobuyoshi Araki. Further pieces are curated in collaboration with Tokyo-based charity, The Art Foundation, as well as light installations designed by Australian interdisciplinary paper artist Geoff Nees.

Each of Park Hyatt Niseko’s eleven lounges, bars and restaurants showcases creative cuisine, sustainably sourced from local Hokkaido farmers and markets. These include the hotel’s signature Italian, Chinese, Robata and Tappanyaki restaurants, as well as Michelin Star Sushi and Two star French restaurant Molière Montagne. Those with a sweet tooth can indulge at the lower floor’s ‘delicatessen street’ and upstairs the Mountain Lounge is equipped with a central fireplace, sofas and all-day dining to reinforce the resort’s homely feel.

Of course a Japanese breakfast in bed is always an option too.For the adventurer travellers among us, the on-site ski valet offers full ski and snowboard equipment rental, as well as hiking and trail gear, and expert staff are on hand for shortcuts up the mountain via snowmobile and for lessons and activities for kids and families.After a day out on the mountain, or for something a little more relaxed, visit the hotel’s Signature Spa for world class facial and body treatments, as well as a 25-metre pool, natural hot spring onsen and an on-site gym.

Nestled into the mountain, and surrounded by some of the best winter conditions in the world, Park Hyatt Niseko is an ideal place to indulge and embrace your adventurous side. Book a stay during the winter months for a memorable snow adventure and become a part of one of the world’s fastest growing ski destinations.

Getting Around
Each of Niseko’s three main resorts; Grand Hirafu, Niseko Village and Annupuri, are connected at the top of the mountain and are easily accessible by skiing or shuttle bus. The nearest airport, Sapporo New Chitose is approximately two hours away, and local Kutchan Station is a 10 minute drive. Public transport options are available, but car hire is recommended.

Local Highlights
For guests visiting outside of the popular winter months, the area’s top attractions include river rafting and canoeing down the Shiribetsu River, private mountain biking tours through Niseko’s forest during green season, and the Hanzono Golf course, surrounded by Niseko’s natural birch forest.