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A Road Trip Through Hokkaido, Japan

Travel

Taking up a huge 22% of Japan’s land mass, Hokkaido is vast. From active volcanoes simmering quietly in the mountainside and oceans freezing over in winter’s subzero conditions, to indigenous Ainu culture dating back hundreds of years and some of Japan’s most diverse wildlife – it’s easy to see why Japan’s northern island has attracted nature-lovers and adventurers the world over.

Having travelled to Hokkaido across each season since being in Japan, I was keen to add something new to my latest trip. Hokkaido is huge, and often the best things are discovered when wandering off the beaten path or to far corners and National Parks. Travelling by car gave us the perfect opportunity to explore Japan’s second largest prefecture at our own pace, getting lost and learning more about rural Japanese life or ‘inaka’ (いなか) along the way.

Moving into warmer months, Hokkaido truly starts to come to life; sprawling coastlines alongside rich natural landscapes, steamy hot springs and shinto shrines by the sea, all add to the unique character of the island.

Across three days, we based ourselves in Sapporo, starting the day with iced coffee from Baristart and finishing with some of Hokkaido’s famous miso ramen, soup curry and fresh sushi. We started our journey into Shikotsu-Toya National Park, across to Cape Kamui on the West Coast, all the way through Beiei in the East, and up to the iconic Shosanbetsu Shrine in the North. Along the way, it wasn’t rare to see deer walking by the roadside, also foxes, snakes, sea eagles – and don’t forget to carry a bell in case you encounter a bear.

I think it’s fair to say I recommend Hokkaido to anyone looking to build a Japan itinerary in the future. Each season the island transforms and natural landscapes are a sight to behold. If you are looking for more in-depth guides to Hokkaido, make sure to check out my Shiretoko National Park guide as well as my latest guidebook, Views from Japan.

Where to Stay

Hoshino Resorts Kai Poroto

Set on the edge of Lake Poroto, the 42-room ryokan blurs the line between man-made structures and the forested surroundings. Its unique bathhouses, inspired by ancient Ainu villages, occupy a cone-shaped structure with outdoor and indoor baths. Rooms have striking white birch columns, fireplace inspired tables and Ainu-patterned artworks. Local seafood informs the dinner menu, with dishes such as fragrant daigo nabe, a hotpot teeming with stewed crab and scallops.

Discover the latest rates for Hoshino Resorts Kai Poroto.

Konbu Onsen Tsuruga

Konbu Onsen Tsuruga Bessou Mokuno Sho

Designed as a second home for guests whilst immersed in the surrounding forest, Tsuruga Bessou Mokunosho is located alongside the Niseko Anbetsu River (meaning ‘water flowing under the cliff’ in the indigenous Ainu language). Wooden interiors surround a central fireplace and Ainu-inspired artworks, and guest rooms feature private hot spring baths. The on-site restaurant celebrates Hokkaido as a ‘region of culinary treasure’ featuring seasonal Japanese Kaiseki-style cuisine.

Book Konbu Onsen Tsuruga Bessou Mokuno Sho now.

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Ancient temples nestled amongst the landscape, a local sake brewery, and an abundance of nature wherever you look. Witness Japan's Zen rituals amongst

If you’re anything like me, then after your first trip to Japan, you’ll probably be reassessing your life and thinking about how you can return to spend longer in the country.If you’re anything like me, then after your first trip to Japan, you’ll probably be reassessing your life and thinking about how you can return to spend longer in the country.
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Moving to Japan: The Best Cities for 2025

If you’re anything like me, then after your first trip to Japan, you’ll probably be reassessing your life and thinking about how you can return to spe

Autumn in Japan is by far my favourite time to travel, with the summer temperatures finally cooling down, and the landscapes across the country being completely transformed.Autumn in Japan is by far my favourite time to travel, with the summer temperatures finally cooling down, and the landscapes across the country being completely transformed.
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Best Places to Visit in Japan this Autumn (Updated for 2024)

Autumn in Japan is by far my favourite time to travel, with the summer temperatures finally cooling down, and the landscapes across the country being

Views from Japan is entering a new chapter, and I’m so excited to finally share it with you! What began as a personal blog to showcase my adventures across Japan, followed by a published travel guidebook, has grown into a fully-fledged and certified travel company, with a brand new digital home, and a continued mission to help you experience Japan in deeper, more meaningful ways.Views from Japan is entering a new chapter, and I’m so excited to finally share it with you! What began as a personal blog to showcase my adventures across Japan, followed by a published travel guidebook, has grown into a fully-fledged and certified travel company, with a brand new digital home, and a continued mission to help you experience Japan in deeper, more meaningful ways.
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Welcome to Views from Japan

Views from Japan is entering a new chapter, and I’m so excited to finally share it with you! What began as a personal blog to showcase my adventures a

In recent years, Kyoto has seen an unprecedented surge in tourism. With over 34 million visitors entering Japan throughout 2024, many flock to the famed city of temples, gardens, and ancient streets. In recent years, Kyoto has seen an unprecedented surge in tourism. With over 34 million visitors entering Japan throughout 2024, many flock to the famed city of temples, gardens, and ancient streets.
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Like Kyoto? Then You’ll Love These 7 Destinations

In recent years, Kyoto has seen an unprecedented surge in tourism. With over 34 million visitors entering Japan throughout 2024, many flock to the fam

Planning a two-week journey through Japan’s art scene can feel overwhelming, with countless galleries and destinations competing for your attention, here’s the ultimate itinerary. Planning a two-week journey through Japan’s art scene can feel overwhelming, with countless galleries and destinations competing for your attention, here’s the ultimate itinerary.
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The Ultimate 14 Day Japan Itinerary for Art Lovers

Planning a two-week journey through Japan’s art scene can feel overwhelming, with countless galleries and destinations competing for your attention, h

A world class museum doubles up as a hotel, cutting edge modern art flows along the coastline, and disused buildings are transformed into pop-up galleries.A world class museum doubles up as a hotel, cutting edge modern art flows along the coastline, and disused buildings are transformed into pop-up galleries.
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Naoshima Travel Guide: Everything You Need to Know for a Trip to Japan’s Art Islands

A world class museum doubles up as a hotel, cutting edge modern art flows along the coastline, and disused buildings are transformed into pop-up galle

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Mount Fuji in Japan glowing in the sunset light, viewed across forested hills and a quiet valley below.
Mount Fuji in Japan glowing in the sunset light, viewed across forested hills and a quiet valley below.
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