How a Night in Onomichi Helped Me Slow Down

Tucked along the Seto Inland Sea, Onomichi is a small coastal town of narrow alleys, aging temples, and sloping stone stairways that invite slow, unhurried exploration. Compared to high-intensity cities like Tokyo, I feel like Onomichi invites travellers to slow down and take a breath.

It’s one of many beautiful places in Japan that gave me a new outlook and taught me the power of slow travel. LOG stands on a hillside overlooking Onomichi; a 1960s apartment block turned contemplative retreat where time stands still. Here’s a few things I learnt along my journey.

Appreciating the Details

At LOG, design isn’t simply for aesthetics; it’s a philosophy. Each space is thoughtfully created to engage the senses and inspire reflection, from the dappled morning light that falls onto exposed brick to the walls of stretched Japanese paper that soften the sun’s glow each evening. Natural materials like wood, rock and clay are left in their original state and root LOG firmly in nature, while earth tones envelope you in warmth. Emulating many impressive design hotels across Japan, rooms at LOG are designed with clean lines, light wood and delicate paper, creating a cocoon I never wanted to leave.

Living Like a Local

LOG’s origins as a 1960s apartment block on the slopes of Mount Senkoji in Hiroshima Prefecture anchor it firmly in the heart of Onomichi’s heritage, with the building watching over daily life for many years, and for visitors who crave a taste of tranquility, it’s one of Japan’s most peaceful and remote hotels.

While staying here, I found myself gazing out over the rooftops and streets of Onomichi or being drawn outside to explore at my own pace. I felt less like a visitor and more like a welcome part of life at LOG, where their cafe, garden and restaurant are open to everyone, locals and visitors alike.

Visiting Hilltop Shrines

Onomichi’s shrines seem almost hidden, linked by gently winding paths with stone steps that beckoned me inside. Even along Onomichi’s popular Temple Walk, I didn’t find myself jostling for space – instead, I felt profound solitude while passing the 25 temples connected on a route that also weaves past small houses and local shops.

If you’ve done Japan once or a few times and are looking to truly get off the tourist trail, consider adding Onomichi to your itinerary. At hillside shrines like Tenneiji Temple, halfway up Mt. Senkoji, the town below fades into a backdrop amidst the stillness, allowing you to enjoy a moment in time and appreciate the spirituality of such a meditative place.

Solo Travel

Although appreciation of Onomichi is best shared with travelling companions who are often the only ones who can understand such a place, I quickly found that Onomichi speaks directly to solo travellers. It’s filled with quiet beauty, secret spots and still moments, whether you’re enjoying a lovingly cooked, seasonal meal in LOG’s restaurant or watching as life wakes up in the streets below; everything fosters a sense of personal connection. At LOG, you can be alone without feeling lonely and rediscover the joy of your own company in a truly unique destination.

Embracing Nature

Onomichi remains one of Japan’s most supremely underrated destinations, and there were countless moments when I felt like I was the only person there. Areas with no one else around, where views over the Seto Inland Sea made the buzz of everyday life seem a world away. If you stay a little longer, visitors begin to trickle away from popular routes like the Mt. Senko-ji Ropeway, affording you even more panoramic views.

And depending on what season you visit, the landscape is ever-changing, from the cherry blossoms that spread out like a soft blanket around Saikoku-ji in spring to the distant slate-blue sea in winter. It’s not just LOG that holds nature close, but the whole island and its architecture that entwines human design with the natural world.

Onomichi’s Quiet Beauty

Onomichi’s beauty revealed itself slowly in small details - morning light filtering through latticework, the soft thud of my footsteps while climbing stone steps or the glint of sun in the eyes of the island’s resident felines. At LOG, life slows down to an almost timeless pace and characterful traits appear; you can sometimes hear the gentle rumble of a train or the sound of a bicycle on cobblestones. In a country beginning to see the impact of mass tourism, where Instagram spots take centre stage and the world is often seen through a phone, Onomichi gave me a chance to truly disconnect and slow down.

10 Tips & Tricks for a Visit to Onomichi

Walk the Temple Route early or late — The Temple Walk is best enjoyed at sunrise or just before sunset when the golden light enhances the atmosphere, and you’ll have the shrines almost to yourself.

Take the ropeway up, walk down — The Mt. Senkoji Ropeway offers breathtaking panoramic views over the Seto Inland Sea, but walking down lets you meander through quiet hillside streets and hidden shrines.

Rent a bicycle for the waterfront — Onomichi is the starting point of the Shimanami Kaido, but even if you're not cycling the full route, renting a bike lets you explore the waterfront and surrounding islands at your own pace.

Wander without a plan — Onomichi’s charm is in the details—tiny alleyways, weathered stone steps, and glimpses of daily life unfold best when you let curiosity guide you.

Stay overnight to feel the town’s rhythm — Onomichi’s quiet beauty comes alive in the early mornings and late evenings when day-trippers leave, revealing a more intimate side of the town.

Seek out local cafés and kissaten — Onomichi has a thriving coffee culture, from modern minimalist cafés to nostalgic kissaten serving traditional siphon-brewed coffee.

Visit the Cat Alley for a touch of whimsy — The narrow "Neko no Hosomichi" is home to quirky cat statues, feline-friendly shops, and real Onomichi cats lounging in the sun.

Explore the backstreets near LOG — Away from the main tourist paths, the hillside alleys near LOG reveal old-fashioned houses, small gardens, and unexpected lookout points over the rooftops.

Take a short ferry ride — Onomichi’s small ferries connect the mainland to neighbouring islands, offering a peaceful way to see the town from the water for just a few hundred yen.

Try Onomichi-style ramen — This local specialty features a soy-based broth with rich pork fat and small fish from the Seto Inland Sea, best enjoyed in a cosy, family-run ramen shop.

How to Get There

Onomichi is well-connected by train, making it an easy stop on a journey through western Japan. The fastest route is via the Shinkansen to Shin-Onomichi Station, which is served by the Sakura and Kodama trains on the Sanyo Shinkansen line. From there, it's a short bus or taxi ride to the town centre. Alternatively, Onomichi Station on the JR Sanyo Main Line sits closer to the waterfront and is ideal for those arriving from Hiroshima (1 hour) or Okayama (1.5 hours) by local train.

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