Setouchi

Tucked along the Seto Inland Sea, Onomichi is a small coastal town of narrow alleys, aging temples, and sloping stone stairways that invite slow, unhurried exploration. Compared to high-intensity cities like Tokyo, I feel like Onomichi invites travellers to slow down and take a breath.

It’s one of many beautiful places in Japan that gave me a new outlook and taught me the power of slow travel. LOG stands on a hillside overlooking Onomichi; a 1960s apartment block turned contemplative retreat where time stands still. Here’s a few things I learnt along my journey.

Appreciating the Details

At LOG, design isn’t simply for aesthetics; it’s a philosophy. Each space is thoughtfully created to engage the senses and inspire reflection, from the dappled morning light that falls onto exposed brick to the walls of stretched Japanese paper that soften the sun’s glow each evening. Natural materials like wood, rock and clay are left in their original state and root LOG firmly in nature, while earth tones envelope you in warmth. Emulating many impressive design hotels across Japan, rooms at LOG are designed with clean lines, light wood and delicate paper, creating a cocoon I never wanted to leave.

Living Like a Local

LOG’s origins as a 1960s apartment block on the slopes of Mount Senkoji in Hiroshima Prefecture anchor it firmly in the heart of Onomichi’s heritage, with the building watching over daily life for many years, and for visitors who crave a taste of tranquility, it’s one of Japan’s most peaceful and remote hotels.

While staying here, I found myself gazing out over the rooftops and streets of Onomichi or being drawn outside to explore at my own pace. I felt less like a visitor and more like a welcome part of life at LOG, where their cafe, garden and restaurant are open to everyone, locals and visitors alike.

Visiting Hilltop Shrines

Onomichi’s shrines seem almost hidden, linked by gently winding paths with stone steps that beckoned me inside. Even along Onomichi’s popular Temple Walk, I didn’t find myself jostling for space – instead, I felt profound solitude while passing the 25 temples connected on a route that also weaves past small houses and local shops.

If you’ve done Japan once or a few times and are looking to truly get off the tourist trail, consider adding Onomichi to your itinerary. At hillside shrines like Tenneiji Temple, halfway up Mt. Senkoji, the town below fades into a backdrop amidst the stillness, allowing you to enjoy a moment in time and appreciate the spirituality of such a meditative place.

Solo Travel

Although appreciation of Onomichi is best shared with travelling companions who are often the only ones who can understand such a place, I quickly found that Onomichi speaks directly to solo travellers. It’s filled with quiet beauty, secret spots and still moments, whether you’re enjoying a lovingly cooked, seasonal meal in LOG’s restaurant or watching as life wakes up in the streets below; everything fosters a sense of personal connection. At LOG, you can be alone without feeling lonely and rediscover the joy of your own company in a truly unique destination.

Embracing Nature

Onomichi remains one of Japan’s most supremely underrated destinations, and there were countless moments when I felt like I was the only person there. Areas with no one else around, where views over the Seto Inland Sea made the buzz of everyday life seem a world away. If you stay a little longer, visitors begin to trickle away from popular routes like the Mt. Senko-ji Ropeway, affording you even more panoramic views.

And depending on what season you visit, the landscape is ever-changing, from the cherry blossoms that spread out like a soft blanket around Saikoku-ji in spring to the distant slate-blue sea in winter. It’s not just LOG that holds nature close, but the whole island and its architecture that entwines human design with the natural world.

Onomichi’s Quiet Beauty

Onomichi’s beauty revealed itself slowly in small details - morning light filtering through latticework, the soft thud of my footsteps while climbing stone steps or the glint of sun in the eyes of the island’s resident felines. At LOG, life slows down to an almost timeless pace and characterful traits appear; you can sometimes hear the gentle rumble of a train or the sound of a bicycle on cobblestones. In a country beginning to see the impact of mass tourism, where Instagram spots take centre stage and the world is often seen through a phone, Onomichi gave me a chance to truly disconnect and slow down.

10 Tips & Tricks for a Visit to Onomichi

Walk the Temple Route early or late — The Temple Walk is best enjoyed at sunrise or just before sunset when the golden light enhances the atmosphere, and you’ll have the shrines almost to yourself.

Take the ropeway up, walk down — The Mt. Senkoji Ropeway offers breathtaking panoramic views over the Seto Inland Sea, but walking down lets you meander through quiet hillside streets and hidden shrines.

Rent a bicycle for the waterfront — Onomichi is the starting point of the Shimanami Kaido, but even if you're not cycling the full route, renting a bike lets you explore the waterfront and surrounding islands at your own pace.

Wander without a plan — Onomichi’s charm is in the details—tiny alleyways, weathered stone steps, and glimpses of daily life unfold best when you let curiosity guide you.

Stay overnight to feel the town’s rhythm — Onomichi’s quiet beauty comes alive in the early mornings and late evenings when day-trippers leave, revealing a more intimate side of the town.

Seek out local cafés and kissaten — Onomichi has a thriving coffee culture, from modern minimalist cafés to nostalgic kissaten serving traditional siphon-brewed coffee.

Visit the Cat Alley for a touch of whimsy — The narrow "Neko no Hosomichi" is home to quirky cat statues, feline-friendly shops, and real Onomichi cats lounging in the sun.

Explore the backstreets near LOG — Away from the main tourist paths, the hillside alleys near LOG reveal old-fashioned houses, small gardens, and unexpected lookout points over the rooftops.

Take a short ferry ride — Onomichi’s small ferries connect the mainland to neighbouring islands, offering a peaceful way to see the town from the water for just a few hundred yen.

Try Onomichi-style ramen — This local specialty features a soy-based broth with rich pork fat and small fish from the Seto Inland Sea, best enjoyed in a cosy, family-run ramen shop.

How to Get There

Onomichi is well-connected by train, making it an easy stop on a journey through western Japan. The fastest route is via the Shinkansen to Shin-Onomichi Station, which is served by the Sakura and Kodama trains on the Sanyo Shinkansen line. From there, it's a short bus or taxi ride to the town centre. Alternatively, Onomichi Station on the JR Sanyo Main Line sits closer to the waterfront and is ideal for those arriving from Hiroshima (1 hour) or Okayama (1.5 hours) by local train.

Affiliate Disclosure: This post contains affiliate links. By purchasing via these links we may earn a small commission at no additional cost to you. We only promote hotels and experiences that we personally trust. Thank you.

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Planning a two-week journey through Japan’s art scene can feel overwhelming, with countless galleries and destinations competing for your attention. This curated itinerary guides you through Tokyo’s design enclaves, Kanazawa’s modern art institutions, and the iconic museums of Naoshima, blending renowned highlights with quieter cultural experiences.

Along the way, you’ll engage deeply with Japan’s artistic traditions—from private zazen meditation in Tokyo to hands-on kintsugi workshops in Kanazawa—here’s the ultimate 14-day itinerary for art lovers in Japan.

Itinerary Highlights

Nezu Museum, Tokyo – A peaceful escape in the Aoyama district, offering a stunning collection of premodern Asian art surrounded by beautifully landscaped gardens.

Hiroshi Senju Museum, Karuizawa – Experience the beauty of Hiroshi Senju’s waterfall paintings, complemented by a museum designed to seamlessly blend with the surrounding forest.

Kenroku-en Garden, Kanazawa – Considered one of Japan’s three most beautiful gardens - Kenroku-en has scenic ponds, rolling hills, and beautifully pruned trees, perfect for an early morning stroll.

Chichu Art Museum, Naoshima – A museum built mostly underground to avoid affecting the natural scenery of the seto inland sea and designed by Tadao Ando, that features works by Monet, Turrell, and De Maria, with a focus on light, space, and nature.

Miyajima Island, Iwakuni – In the island where gods are said to dwell, see the iconic Itsukushima Shrine with its floating torii gate, hike Mount Misen, and marvel at the autumn colours in Momijidani Park.

Day 1-5 – Tokyo

The Nezu Museum, with its tranquil gardens and refined collection of Japanese art, provides a peaceful escape in the heart of Tokyo, while the sleek design of 21_21 Design Sight in Roppongi stands as a testament to Tokyo's forward-thinking approach to art and architecture. Here’s how to spend your first five days in the capital.

Highlights

Daikanyama T-Site — Daikanyama T-Site is a cultural complex in Daikanyama, offering a refined selection of art, design, and travel books, along with the sleek Anjin Lounge. Each space remains open until 10 pm–so grab a book, a glass of wine, or a coffee, and recharge after your day in the big city.

Nezu Museum, Aoyama — The Nezu Museum in Aoyama combines a collection of pre-modern Asian art with an oasis-like Japanese garden out the back. Its minimalist design by Kengo Kuma creates a harmonious connection between architecture and nature.

21_21 Design Sight, Roppongi — Designed by none other than architect Tadao Ando and fashion designer Issey Miyake, 21_21 Design Sight showcases innovative contemporary design through rotating exhibitions. Its striking architecture and thought-provoking displays based on “everyday life” make it a hub for design enthusiasts and art lovers visiting Japan’s capital city.

Yanaka — Yanaka offers a rare glimpse of old Tokyo with its narrow streets, wooden houses, and small galleries. It retains a quiet, traditional charm, making it an authentic escape from the modern city.

Getting Around

Tokyo’s transport system is straightforward and highly efficient. The Tokyo Metro is the quickest way to travel around central Tokyo, while JR lines serve the suburbs and outlying areas. For trips to other cities, the Shinkansen (bullet trains) offer fast connections. Prepaid IC cards like Suica or Pasmo can be used across all public transport, including buses.

Top tip: You can now add IC cards directly to your phone.

Experience

Private Zazen Meditation Experience — Engage in a deeply calming private Zazen meditation session at Kinryuji Temple in Asakusa. Guided by a seasoned monk, this experience offers a rare opportunity to practice traditional seated meditation in an authentic temple environment. Finish up the experience with matcha tea and traditional sweets.

Where to Stay

K5 Tokyo — K5 Tokyo is a luxury boutique hotel blending cutting-edge design with rich Japanese heritage. Housed in a restored 1920s bank building, the hotel offers sophisticated, minimalist rooms and an intimate atmosphere, alongside exceptional French-Japanese-Scandi dining and a curated art collection.

Day 5-7 – Karuizawa

Karuizawa is an ideal retreat for those seeking a blend of art, nature, and peace at the same time. The Hiroshi Senju Museum offers an immersive experience with its contemplative waterfall paintings set within a serene forest, while Shiraito Waterfall provides an escape into nature. The Karuizawa New Art Museum complements the area’s natural beauty with contemporary art in a minimalist setting.

Highlights

Hiroshi Senju Museum — This museum showcases the works of Japanese artist Hiroshi Senju, known for his large-scale waterfall paintings. Leading architect Ryue Nishizawa was enlisted to ensure the space flows naturally with the landscape and celebrates the confluence of nature, art and architecture as one.

Shiraito Waterfall — Located in the forests North of central Karuizawa, this 3-metre high, 70-metre wide waterfall is best viewed in the Summer when the vegetation is most extravagant, though Autumn leaves also make it popular later during the year.

Karuizawa New Art Museum — Opened in 2012 and designed by Nishimori Rikuo, the Karuizawa New Art Museum presents contemporary art in a sleek, minimalist space with floor-to-roof windows covering every side. The first floor houses a glass chapel designed by Kengo Kuma in the garden, while the second is home to an art museum of roughly 1,000 square meters.

Getting Around

Karuizawa is a small, walkable town. Many highlights are within walking or cycling distance from the main station, but buses and other transport are necessary for those sights further out. Consider renting a bicycle or hopping on Kusakaru Kotsu or Seibu busses.

Where to Stay

Hoshinoya Karuizawa — Just an hour from Tokyo, Hoshinoya Karuizawa is a luxury ryokan set deep inside a forest, that offers traditional Japanese design with immersion in nature. The guest pavilions (rooms) are imbued with geothermal heating and look out over either the bird sanctuary, the forest, or the river that weaves throughout the property.

Day 7-10 – Kanazawa

Kanazawa is a city rich in both traditional and contemporary art. The Higashi Chaya District invites visitors to step back in time with its preserved tea houses, while the iconic Kenroku-en Garden provides a tranquil space with its meticulously curated landscapes. The 21st Century Museum of Modern Art is a must-see for its striking collection of contemporary art, and the DT Suzuki Museum offers a wonderful introduction to Zen philosophy.

Highlights

Higashi Chaya District — A beautifully preserved historic district, Higashi Chaya offers a glimpse into Kanazawa’s past with its traditional wooden tea houses and charming streets. The district exudes a quiet elegance, with opportunities to experience the city’s rich cultural heritage.

Kenroku-en Garden — Located next to Kanazawa Castle, Kenroku-en Garden is known as one of Japan’s three great gardens. A masterpiece of landscape design, Kasumigaike Pond, the numerous bridges, and seasonal flowers offer a peaceful setting to experience the changing beauty of nature.

21st Century Museum of Modern Art — While Kanazawa is celebrated for it’s relationship to ancient crafts, the 21st Century Museum of Modern Art, a striking building with transparent walls, showcases global contemporary works in a light-filled, open environment. Its collection focuses on work that proposes new values (since 1980), work influencing new values (since 1900), and work closely associated with Kanazawa.

D.T. Suzuki Museum — Opened in 2011 in Suzuki’s birthplace of Kanazawa, this museum explores the life and writings of Zen philosopher D.T. Suzuki, who introduced Japanese Zen to the West. Its minimalist design, with open spaces and clean lines, reflects Suzuki’s teachings, encouraging quiet contemplation.

Getting Around

Kanazawa’s main attractions are within a two-kilometre radius of Kanazawa Castle Park, making it easy to explore on foot. A network of local buses, including the Kanazawa Loop Bus, connects the station to key sites, with taxis also readily available.

Note: IC cards can only be used on the Kanazawa Loop Bus, JR busses and the Machi Bus.

Experience

At Urushitoki Sadaike, a fourth-generation lacquerware workshop in Kanazawa, you’ll observe master artisan Takashi Sadaike at work. The hands-on experience includes practising kintsugi, the traditional art of repairing ceramics with natural lacquer and taking home a finished piece the same day. You’ll also learn about the full lacquerware-making process, from harvesting urushi sap to crafting wooden bases.

Where to Stay

Nestled in a renovated building once owned by Shinbidou, Korinkyo immerses guests in Kanazawa’s artistic and cultural heart. Surrounded by Kutani pottery and modern art, the space offers a peaceful retreat, perfect for recharging in a city rich with history and craftsmanship.

Day 10-12 – Naoshima Island

Naoshima Island, Japan’s art haven, seamlessly blends contemporary art with nature. The Chichu Art Museum, housed underground, is a must-see, while the Benesse House offers an immersive experience with its modern architecture.

Highlights

Chichu Art Museum — A unique underground museum built into the landscape, Chichu Art Museum showcases works by Claude Monet, James Turrell, and Walter De Maria. The site solely uses natural light to create an experience that’s influenced by the natural environment. Be sure to book your visit in advance to secure a spot.

Benesse House — Part museum, part hotel, Benesse House is an iconic site on Naoshima. It houses an impressive collection of modern and contemporary art while ensuring guests have the chance to stay immersed in the artwork. Part of a broader initiative to revitalise the island, Benesse House aims to foster a deeper understanding of art through immersive experiences. It can get busy at times, so be sure to prebook to avoid disappointment.

Teshima Art Museum — Teshima Art Museum, designed by Rei Naito and Ryue Nishizawa, is nestled among rice terraces on a neighbouring island - block out half a day to experience this area. Its concrete structure, with oval openings, allows light, wind, and natural sounds to enter, offering a meditative experience with water droplets forming on the polished floor.

Valley Gallery — A smaller yet engaging gallery accessed via a path that weaves and winds through the island’s nature. The site features installations by Yaoi Kusama and Tsuyoshi Ozawa. Ando’s aim was to ‘create a space while preserving as much of the existing topography and trees as possible’.

Naoshima Art House Project — A collection of art installations integrated into old houses in the Honmura district, this project invites visitors to explore both art and the island's traditional architecture in a unique, interactive way.

Getting Around

Buses run from Miyanoura to the Benesse House complex, with additional shuttle buses for guests operating once or twice per hour. Rental bicycles (500 yen/day) provide a scenic way to explore the island, though bear in mind that some roads are hilly.

Where to Stay

Roka Naoshima, the island’s first ryokan, opened in 2022, blends local materials and design to create a peaceful retreat in the hillside. Surrounded by nature, the hotel offers a unique, secluded experience, perfect for those seeking tranquillity on this art-filled island.

Day 12-14 - Iwakuni

Iwakuni, a city in Yamaguchi Prefecture, is best known for the Kintai-kyo Bridge. For art lovers, the Simose Art Museum presents an elegant collection of works in a refined setting, while a day trip to Miyajima Island uncovers its historic beauty.

Highlights

Simose Art Museum — Located along the scenic banks of the Nishiki River, the Simose Art Museum offers a diverse collection of contemporary and traditional Japanese art, all housed in a modern, understated space. This ‘Garden of art by the Sea’, houses traditional works like Japanese dolls and Art Noveau glass works alongside modern masters like Henri Matisse, March Chagall, and Kaii Higashiyama.

Miyajima Island Day Trip — A short ferry ride from Iwakuni, Miyajima Island is known for the iconic “floating” torii gate of Itsukushima Shrine as well as Mount Misen, and a number of walking trails that change with the seasons. If you want, stay in one of the ryokan overnight to enjoy much of the island to yourself, when the daytime tourists have gone back home.

Getting Around

Iwakuni is easily explored on foot or by bus–all of the attractions are located within walking distance of the Kintai-kyo Bridge. The Nishigawa Railway connects Iwakuni Station with Shin-Iwakuni Station–the two main nearby stations with trains running every 1-3 hours.

Where to Stay

Simose Art Garden Villa — Simose Art Garden Villa blends effortlessly into its natural surroundings, offering a peaceful atmosphere with views that echo the nearby Simose Art Museum. This contemporary retreat invites quiet reflection, where art and nature coexist in harmony.

10 Tips & Tricks

1. Pre-Book Museum Tickets: Popular art destinations like Chichu Art Museum on Naoshima and Benesse House can have limited entry times and can be fully booked, especially during peak seasons. Be sure to book your tickets well in advance to avoid missing out.
2. Explore Art and Nature Together: In places like Karuizawa and Naoshima, make time to experience art in its natural landscape. Consider a walk through the Hiroshi Senju Museum’s surrounding forest or the open spaces of the Teshima Art Museum to immerse yourself in both artistic and natural beauty simultaneously.
3. Pack Comfortable Footwear: You’ll be walking a lot between galleries and museums, particularly on Naoshima Island and in places like Yanaka, which is best explored on foot. Comfortable shoes are essential for enjoying the journey without discomfort.‍
4. Stay in Art-Inspired Hotels: If you’re a design lover, opt for stays that are themselves works of art, such as Benesse House or Roka Naoshima. These hotels double as museums, offering a fully immersive art experience where you can wake up surrounded by contemporary works.‍
5. Visit Museums Early or Late: For a quieter, more intimate experience, plan your museum visits early in the morning or later in the afternoon. These times tend to be less crowded, allowing you to engage with the art in peace.‍
6. Explore Smaller Galleries: Beyond the well-known institutions, Japan is home to small, independent galleries tucked in neighbourhoods like Daikanyama or Yanaka. These often offer a more personal connection to local artists and unique exhibitions.‍
7. Take Advantage of Local Art Workshops: In Kanazawa, don't miss the chance to try your hand at the art of kintsugi. Participating in a hands-on workshop at Urushitoki Sadaike is a great way to connect with Japan’s craft traditions and take home a piece of art that you made yourself.‍
8. Bring a Camera (But Be Respectful): Some museums may allow photography in specific sections–bring a camera even to those that don’t, the areas are often beautiful in their own right. Capture moments, but always check the rules and be mindful of the experience of others.‍
9. Use Bicycles on Naoshima: Naoshima Island’s compact size and scenic routes make it ideal for cycling. Renting a bike from the ferry terminal gives you flexibility and a peaceful, efficient way to explore the island’s art spaces.‍
10. Maximise Light and Space in Museums: Naoshima’s art museums, such as the Chichu Art Museum, are carefully designed to incorporate natural light and space. When you visit, take a moment to appreciate how the lighting affects the mood and experience of the artwork. Take your time and soak in the environment, as it’s as much a part of the art as the works themselves.

Affiliate Disclosure: Please note this post may contain affiliate links. By purchasing via these links, I may earn a small commission at no additional cost to you. It’s a big help to keep this site up and running and I only promote products and services that I personally use and trust. Thanks!

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As Japan welcomes 2025, we invite you to embrace travel with the mindfulness and intentionality. Much like how Shōgatsu encourages preparation, gratitude, and reflection, this year offers a chance to venture off the beaten track, slow down, and discover places that lie beyond the usual tourist trails.

Shōgatsu: A New Year in Japan

Every January, Japan celebrates Shōgatsu, marking the beginning of a new calendar year. Shōgatsu is about creating a clean slate – both physically and mentally – to welcome the year ahead with intention. Homes are thoroughly cleaned, symbolic soba and mochi are prepared, and families gather to reflect and give thanks.

This got me thinking: what if we applied these principles, not just for our daily lives, but for the way we travel? Could we approach travel with the same sense of mindfulness and purpose? From new cultural landmarks to serene retreats, here’s your guide to exploring Japan more deeply in 2025.

Setouchi: Art, Nature & Award-Winning Design

Known for its blend of natural beauty and contemporary art, the Setouchi Triennale returns in 2025. Spend the night at Simose Art Garden Villa, aka the world’s most beautiful museum, to experience world-class art and architecture. Naoshima, already renowned as a hub for art, will unveil the much-anticipated New Museum of Art, designed by Tadao Ando.

Hokkaido: Marking 60 Years of Natural Wonders

As we yearn for the outdoors and remote experiences, Hokkaido will continue to draw attention through 2025. Celebrating the 60th anniversary of UNESCO-recognised Shiretoko National Park, winter offers the chance to witness the drift ice phenomenon, while the newly opened Hokkaido East Trail beckons adventurers looking for remote hiking experiences.

Onomichi: A Slice of Timeless Elegance

In Onomichi, Azumi Setoda reimagines the art of hospitality, blending sleek modern design with the timeless spirit of the Setouchi region. This boutique hotel offers travellers a window into Japan’s traditional ryokan culture, while the surrounding islands are perfect for cycling, slow exploration, and soaking in the tranquil coastal scenery.

Miyakojima: Tropical Bliss with a Purpose

This year, Miyakojima, part of Okinawa’s sun-soaked islands, makes its mark with the opening of the Rosewood Miyakojima resort. Beyond its pristine beaches and crystal-clear waters, the island offers intentional, immersive exploration. Visit local villages, where you’ll find independent shops selling handmade crafts and island specialties, from Ryukyu textiles to sweet potato-based delicacies.

Beppu: Japan’s Hot Spring Capital

Beppu, Oita, offers a perfect retreat for slow travel, blending hot spring healing with design and crafts. Known as Japan’s hot spring capital, Beppu’s baths provide a restorative experience. Architectural highlights like Kengo Kuma’s Comico Art Museum and the city’s celebrated bamboo craft traditions add a cultural dimension, making it more than just a wellness destination

Aomori: Tradition, Art, and Seasonal Splendor

Aomori combines traditional festivals, modern art, and unspoiled natural beauty – making it a perfect match for those seeking slower, more purposeful exploration in 2025. The iconic Nebuta Festival parades through the streets each August, and the newly opened Tsugaru train route, winds through rural countryside, offering a picturesque way to experience the changing seasons.

Fukui: New Shinkansen Gateway to Coastal Charms

With the brand new Hokuriku Shinkansen extension, Fukui is more accessible than ever. Beyond visiting iconic sites like Eiheiji Temple or the dramatic Tojinbo Cliffs, this is a chance to venture into smaller coastal towns and remote countryside villages like Mikuni and Ikeda. Stay longer, connect with locals, and appreciate the simple beauty of this often-overlooked region.

Travel Beyond the Expected

In 2025, travel with purpose – venture further afield than the masses and explore beyond the usual Golden Triangle of Tokyo, Kyoto, and Osaka. Whether it’s the cedar forests of Yakushima, the remote ryokans of Wakayama, or the serene art galleries of Aomori, there’s a world of experiences waiting to be uncovered.

Affiliate Disclosure: Please note this post may contain affiliate links. By purchasing via these links, I may earn a small commission at no additional cost to you. It’s a big help to keep this site up and running and I only promote products and services that I personally use and trust. Thanks!

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For travellers accustomed to the fast-paced blur of action in Tokyo’s vibrant neighbourhoods, Miyajima offers a slower, more serene pace of life. Just a short ferry ride from Hiroshima, the island is most famous for its ‘floating’ red torii gate and the UNESCO World Heritage site of Itsukushima Shrine. However, Miyajima blends natural beauty with a rich culture beyond the most famous sites, making it perfect for those searching for a unique addition to their next Japan itinerary.

Explore the Itsukushima Shrine

Balanced gracefully over the water on stilts, Itsukushima Shrine is both an architectural masterpiece and a photographer’s dream. Built to honour Shinto deities, the shrine’s unique design seamlessly integrates with its surroundings. At low tide, visitors can walk right up to the legendary structure, or for an alternative perspective, wander through the shrine’s wooden corridors to take in the views over the bay framed by its pillars.

Discover Omotesando Shopping Street

Omotesando Shopping Street is full of life and always brimming with local flavours, handmade crafts and unique souvenirs - it’s the ultimate sensory experience in Miyajima. Here, you can discover Miyajima’s crafts, such as the intricately carved wooden rice scoops (shamoji) and delectable street food. The air is filled with the aromas of delicacies like grilled oysters and fried momiji manju (buns shaped like maple leaves), which are a must-try sweet in Miyajima.

Meet the Locals

One of Miyajima’s most charming attractions is the population of free-roaming sika deer, which are revered as sacred messengers of the gods. The deer wander the island, and are most often found near temples and shrines, coexisting with daily life. The deer are friendly but can be curious, particularly if you’re carrying food. Feeding them is prohibited, but they sometimes interact with people and may even nibble on paper or your snacks if they get too close.

Sample Local Food Delicacies

Like many places across Japan, Miyajima is a paradise for food-lovers. Begin your tasting experience with freshly caught grilled oysters, a local speciality with a delicious smoky flavour. For something heartier, try anago meshi, a dish of tender, caramelised conger eel served over steamed rice, which is a favourite among locals and visitors. If you can only try one thing, make it momiji manju, sweet buns shaped like maple leaves. They’re traditionally filled with sweet red bean paste, but variations include custard, matcha and chocolate.

Experience Traditional Crafts at Miyajima Kogei Seisakusho

Like the celebrated craftsmanship in Kanazawa, Miyajima’s dedication to traditional woodworking showcases the artistry behind Japan’s daily essentials. This historic factory, also called Miyajima Craft Factory, has been producing wooden rice scoops (shamoji) and cooking spatulas for more than a century, blending functionality with beautiful craftsmanship. The artisans at the factory are committed to their craft and the workshop offers a fascinating chance to see them at work for anyone who wants to dive deeper into authentic Japanese crafts.

Watch the Sunset Over the Floating Torii Gate

For a truly unforgettable way to end a day on Miyajima Island, watch the sunset over the iconic red torii gate at Itsukushima Shrine. At high tide, the brilliant red gate completes its illusion of hovering above the water, with deep red and orange hues reflected on the sea, further enhancing the gate’s striking silhouette. Low tide offers a new way to admire the gate by walking right up to the structure across the exposed seabed.

Stay Overnight at Itsukushima Iroha

While many visitors exploring Japan for the first time include Miyajima Island as a short day trip on their itinerary, those who slow down and stay overnight will find their visit transformed into an even more memorable experience. Itsukushima Iroha is one of Japan’s many unique ryokans not to be missed, blending traditional Japanese aesthetics with modern amenities, allowing you to experience the island at its quietest and most enchanting.

10 Tips & Tricks for a Visit to Miyajima Island

1. Plan around the tides — Check the tide schedule before visiting the iconic red torii gate to plan your visit and enjoy the gate from at both high and low tide..
2. Spend the night — Travellers staying overnight on Miyajima will be rewarded with peaceful views and quiet streets each morning and evening.
3. Start early — Arrive early to enjoy Miyajima’s peaceful atmosphere before day-trippers flood the island. Early mornings are perfect for a quiet stroll along Omotesando Shopping Street or capturing photos of the torii gate.
4. Respect the deer — While the deer are generally friendly, it's important not to feed them, as human food can be harmful to their health.
5. Try local specialities — Trying local dishes is an essential part of the Miyajima experience. Grilled oysters, anago meshi(eel rice), and fried momiji manju are delicious and portable options.
6. Consider your fitness — Not up for a long climb? Take the Ropeway up Mount Misen for stunning views of the island and Seto Inland Sea; if you’re feeling fit, you can continue hiking to the summit.
7. Plan in advance — Miyajima is accessible by ferry from Hiroshima. JR Pass holders can use the JR Miyajima Ferry at no extra cost. Check the schedule and aim to arrive early to avoid long queues.
8. Book accommodation ahead — The island has limited accommodations and ryokans like Itsukushima Iroha often require advance booking, especially if you’re visiting during cherry blossom or autumn foliage seasons.
9. Bring cash — Although some places accept cards, many small vendors and street food stalls only take cash, so it’s best to carry enough yen for your visit.
10. Prepare for the weather — In summer, bring a hat, sunscreen, and bug spray to Miyajima. During autumn or winter, layers and a windproof jacket are essential.

How to Get There

Reaching Miyajima Island is a straightforward journey from Hiroshima. First, take the JR Sanyo Line from Hiroshima Station to Miyajimaguchi Station (about 25 minutes). From there, it’s a short 10-minute ferry ride to the island, with ferries running frequently throughout the day. If you have a Japan Rail Pass, you can use the JR Ferry at no additional cost. Once on the island, most attractions, including the famous floating torii gate, are easily explored on foot.

Affiliate Disclosure: This post contains affiliate links. By purchasing via these links we may earn a small commission at no additional cost to you. We only promote hotels and experiences that we personally trust. Thank you.

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My work as a travel writer and photographer has led me to collaborate with some of the world’s leading hotel brands. But beyond the big names, I’ve checked into places you wouldn’t usually find in a magazine, where hospitality isn’t measured by thread counts or star ratings, but by a sense of place and culture.

Many people visiting Japan for the first time (or anywhere in the world) often book hotels based on surface-level factors, such as price or Instagram aesthetics, but just beyond these are unique hotels that can become, sometimes, more memorable than the journey itself. Here’s what to look for when booking your accommodation in Japan and why you should look beyond what you think you know about hotels.

1. More Remote, More Rewarding

The best hotel stays often come from getting off the beaten path and Japan has a whole range of beautiful remote stays that fit the bill. In scenic Toyama lies Rakudo-An, set in the beautiful and remote Tonami Plain, which is a hotel consisting of just three rooms inside a century-old farmhouse. Inside the Azumadachi farmhouse, traditional silks and wood take centre stage, reflective of the talented craftspeople who live nearby.

2. Eco-Conscious Travel is No Longer a Niche

Sustainability is much more than just a trend; it’s the future of hospitality and both visitors and properties should be prioritising it. On Awaji Island, Zenbo Seinei is just one example of how Japanese hotels do sustainability right. The hotel is centred around a long wooden platform that melts into the surrounding forest, while Hida furniture, draws on the art of traditional Japanese crafts and furniture making. Stay for dinner and you’ll find a menu using local, seasonal ingredients and no animal products, strengthening their sustainability further.

3. Slowing Down: The Hotel as a Destination

The best hotels are a destination in themselves, encouraging you to slow down and providing surroundings, aesthetics or activities that fill your time. This can most often be found in Japan’s beautiful ryokans - one of my favourites is Hoshino Resorts Kai Poroto on the banks of Lake Poroto where exceptional design makes it somewhere you would travel simply to experience it. It features stunning bathhouses inspired by ancient Ainu villages, while rooms take in the surroundings through floor-to-ceiling windows, offering perfect landscape views when the colours of autumn come out.

4. Food as the Heart of a Stay

For travellers who have explored surface level Japan, taking things deeper by diving into its culture and gastronomy will enrich any return trip. At Banyan Tree Higashiyama in Kyoto, every bite is a culinary journey. Expect authentic dishes that use local, seasonal ingredients. Guests are part of the cooking process with a Japanese kaiseki menu where the chef prepares dishes at your tableside grill, while even the hotel bar, Bar Ryozen, offers the chance to taste sake while listening to the history of the rice used to craft it.

5. The Magic of Family-Run Stays

Five-star hospitality is great, but there’s nothing quite like the homeliness of a family-run stay. In Fukuoka, Tachibana Ohana combines grandeur, luxury and local heritage in just 20 rooms designed with traditional Japanese aesthetics. Everything immerses you in the history of the surrounding area and the hotel feels like a still-standing extension of olden-day Japan, with authentic interiors and locally sourced delicacies served in their restaurant. The warmth of staff and locals here feels genuine, which is all part of the magic of opting for local stays.

6. Aim Small: The Charm of Boutique Hotels

Personalised service, thoughtful design and a sense of place shine through in boutique hotels like Azumi Setoda, a heritage family estate near Hiroshima. The beautifully designed hotel is one of Japan’s most unique ryokans, mixing sleek contemporary interiors with traditional flair and materials. Everything is highly personalised and led by local knowledge, from the dining, which uses vegetables from Setoda and other areas in the Setouchi region, to the experiences, which range from learning about Fukuyama denim to a lemon harvest tour.

7. Price Doesn’t Always Equal Experience

An expensive price tag won’t always get you the best experience. Take Hostel Saruya in Fujiyoshida as a prime example: it’s in an unmatched location at the foot of Mount Fuji, but expensive add-ons aren’t the aim here. The converted 1940s Japanese townhouse is split across two separate buildings, and mixes open plan living, an artist residency programme and rustic elements to create a warm, homely feel. If you’re beginning a journey with a trip to Mount Fuji, this is a great starting point for discovering Japan’s art scene.

8. Where Culture and Hospitality Intersect

Culture is a key part of any hotel stay, particularly in a country like Japan where culture and tradition form the basis for its entire ethos. In Fukui Prefecture, Hakujukan provides this in spades, offering every guest a ‘Zen concierge’ and the chance to partake in authentic experiences like trying Buddhist cuisine and monastery meditation at the nearby Eiheiji Temple. Every experience is tailored to connect you with the area’s culture and spirituality, making you feel like part of the community. Each morning, you’ll meditate with monks and burn incense, during the day guests can join sutra-copying classes or lectures, and evenings bring delicious shojin ryori, the vegetarian cuisine eaten in temples.

9. Service Over Everything

A good stay usually comes back to one key ingredient: good service. Even if you stay somewhere that doesn’t match what you quite expected, you’ll remember the warm or attentiveness of the service. For a true taste of service that is almost intuitive, The Shinmonzen in Kyoto is the place to stay. Aside from being one of Kyoto’s most unique design hotels, The Shinmonzen makes you feel remembered, thanks to private experiences and personalised touches, whether you want to book a trip to the spa or take a private rickshaw around town - they’ll know your name, what you like and always go the extra mile.

10. Why Design Matters More Than Ever

Well-thought-out architecture and unique interiors are the cornerstone of Japanese hotels and can also shape how we experience a place. Some of Japan’s innovative hotels draw the eye inwards, towards handcrafted furniture and in-house experiences, while others showcase the great outdoors through reflection and unusual structures. Hiroshima’s Simose Art Garden Villa, designed by Shigeru Ban, maximises natural light and frames views of the surrounding gardens, creating a sense of serenity for guests. These surroundings create and inside-outside feel: water, sky, stone and wood appear outside in the nearby basin, forests and mountain, but also inside in the bright, sleek villas. Reflections feature heavily, in the museum entrance hall and in their Emile Gallé's Garden, intended to amplify the scenery of the Seto Inland Sea.

Affiliate Disclosure: This post contains affiliate links. By purchasing via these links we may earn a small commission at no additional cost to you. We only promote hotels and experiences that we personally trust. Thank you.

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Set along the shores of the Seto Inland Sea, Azumi Setoda redefines the ryokan experience by blending contemporary elegance with centuries-old traditions. Founded by legendary hotelier Adrian Zecha, this intimate retreat is housed in a meticulously restored kominka—a historic Japanese home—where every element reflects a deep respect for Setoda’s cultural heritage. The rooms are pared back yet warm, with handcrafted shoji screens, cedar bathtubs, and subtle nods to traditional ryokan aesthetics.

At Azumi Dining, Head Chef Akita sources seasonal ingredients from the Setouchi region, serving exquisitely plated dishes on heirloom ceramics passed down through generations. The hospitality is refined yet relaxed, embodying the understated luxury Zecha is known for. A private onsen and wellness offerings, including Japanese tea ceremonies and guided cycling routes, complete the experience—this is slow living at its finest.

The Location

Azumi Setoda is nestled in the heart of Ikuchijima, an island along the famed Shimanami Kaido cycling route, connecting Japan’s Honshu and Shikoku islands via scenic bridges. Once a thriving hub for salt merchants, Setoda has retained its quiet charm, with historic streets, citrus groves, and an art scene that feels both intimate and deeply rooted.

A short stroll from the ryokan leads to Hirayama Ikuo Museum of Art, dedicated to the island’s renowned nihonga painter, while nearby Kosanji Temple offers a surreal escape with its vividly painted pagodas and marble sculptures. Whether arriving by bike or ferry, visitors are met with a sense of tranquillity that contrasts the busier cities of Japan.

Who is it For?

Azumi Setoda is for those who appreciate precision in design and the beauty of imperfection. Architecture and hospitality enthusiasts will admire Zecha’s ability to reinterpret the ryokan experience for modern travellers, while food lovers will relish the hyper-local, seasonal approach to dining.

Cyclists and slow travellers will find a natural rhythm here, whether embarking on a multi-day journey along the Shimanami Kaido or simply unwinding in a cedar-scented bath after a day of exploring. It’s also perfect for couples and solo travellers seeking space, silence, and a genuine connection to place.

Sustainability

Sustainability at Azumi Setoda is deeply rooted in restoration and community engagement. The ryokan itself is a careful revitalization of a historic building, honouring Setoda’s past while ensuring its longevity. Locally sourced materials, traditional craftsmanship, and natural ventilation techniques minimize environmental impact without sacrificing comfort.

The culinary program is zero-waste focused, with ingredients sourced from nearby farms, fisheries, and Setouchi citrus orchards. Tableware—ranging from lacquerware to ceramic heirlooms—supports local artisans, while even the tea leaves used in ceremonies come from small-batch producers.

Beyond the ryokan, Azumi collaborates with the Setouchi community to sustain local culture, from supporting artists and craftspeople to revitalizing the island’s rich maritime heritage. It’s a place where preservation and modern luxury coexist seamlessly.

Important Information

How to Get There

Car
‍From Hiroshima, drive along the Shimanami Kaido Expressway, crossing the islands via its breathtaking suspension bridges. The journey takes approximately 1.5 hours.

Train
‍Take the Shinkansen to Mihara Station, then transfer to the local ferry to Setoda Port. Azumi Setoda is a short walk from the port.

Check-in / Check-out

• Check-in: 15:00
• Check-out: 11:00

Number of Onsen

• One private onsen (for guests only)

Pets

• Not allowed

Contact

• Website: azumi.co/setoda
• Phone: Available via website contact
• Address: 269 Setoda, Onomichi, Hiroshima, Japan 722-2411

Affiliate Disclosure: This post contains affiliate links. By purchasing via these links we may earn a small commission at no additional cost to you. We only promote hotels and experiences that we personally trust. Thank you.

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Winding pathways, contemporary art installations, and sweeping views of the Seto Inland Sea – Simose Art Garden Villa is a designer’s paradise just an hour outside Hiroshima. Designed by legendary Japanese architect Shigeru Ban, the villas take inspiration from their surroundings; think local shipyards and incorporating recycled materials into their structure.

Luxury guest villas, art installations, and mirrored exhibition spaces blur the line between indoors and out – my favourite being my stay in the Paper House, with walls made from repurposed cardboard tubes – a masterclass in sustainability and design. From private dining experiences to seamless integration with the natural landscape, Simose is a rare example of hospitality done right – where local culture, world-class architecture, and fine cuisine come together effortlessly.

The Offer

Simose Art Garden Villa offers a refined blend of art, architecture, and nature. Waterfront Villas feature baths made from Towada stone and Japanese cypress, while tatami mats with sliding doors and beds facing the sea fill the rest of the room. The Forest Villa design recreates Karuizawan homes, among others, from the 90s. In the museum, guests can enjoy collections of Japanese dolls, Art Nouveau glass works and works by modern masters like Henri Matisse, Marc Chagall, and Kaii Higashiyama.

The on-site French restaurant, run by head chef Hiroshi Hisashige, blends French techniques with local Setouchi cuisine. Simose Art Garden Villa also features eight movable galleries designed by Shigeru Ban, inspired by the Seto Inland Sea. By incorporating Hiroshima’s shipbuilding technology into their design, these galleries can be moved by floating them on water – an innovative way to rearrange for each exhibition.

The Location

Simose Art Garden Villa is located in Otake, Hiroshima Prefecture, along the shores of the Seto Inland Sea. The area is known for its gentle waves, dense forests, and clusters of islands on the horizon.

Nearby, the historic town of Iwakuni features the iconic Kintai Bridge, while ferry connections provide access to the art island of Naoshima. The villa’s coastal setting offers sweeping views of the sea and islands–an ideal base for exploring the region’s cultural and natural highlights.

Who is it For?

Simose Art Garden Villa is perfect for travellers who appreciate design, art, and nature in equal measure. If you’re seeking a contemplative, design-led stay, or simply looking for a quiet, luxurious retreat with a difference, Simose Art Garden Villa should be on your itinerary.

Couples, solo travellers, and culture enthusiasts will find the villa’s environment particularly suited to relaxation and creative inspiration.

Sustainability

Sustainability and environmental integration is a core principle at Simose Art Garden Villa. Through the careful selection of materials (wood, tatami, stone), the collection of forest and waterfront villas have been designed to seamlessly blend with the backdrop while each retaining individual design. The property also emphasises responsible dining, sourcing ingredients from regional farmers and fishermen.

Important Information

How to Get There

Car
‍The villa is accessible by car, with on-site parking available. - Pickup available from Iwakuni Kintaikyo Airport, Kuba Station, Otake Station, and Shin-Iwakuni Station

Train
‍The nearest station is Otake Station, from which a short taxi ride, or walk, will take you to the hotel.

Ferry
‍Visitors exploring the Seto Inland Sea can access the villa via ferry routes connecting nearby islands.

Check-in / Check-out

• Check-in: 15:00
• Check-out: 11:00

Number of Onsen

• Private indoor and outdoor baths

Pets

• Not allowed

Contact

• Website: Simose Art Garden Villa
• Phone: 739-0622
• Address: 2-chōme-10-50 Harumi, Otake, Hiroshima

Affiliate Disclosure: This post contains affiliate links. By purchasing via these links we may earn a small commission at no additional cost to you. We only promote hotels and experiences that we personally trust. Thank you.

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In recent years, Kyoto has seen an unprecedented surge in tourism. With over 34 million visitors entering Japan throughout 2024, many flock to the famed city of temples, gardens, and ancient streets. While Kyoto undeniably offers cultural and historical treasures, the influx of tourists has made it increasingly difficult to enjoy certain parts. Fortunately, Japan offers countless alternative destinations that capture Kyoto’s traditional charm while providing a more relaxed and authentic atmosphere.

Magome-juku, Gifu: A Journey into the Edo Era

Tucked away in the Kiso Valley, Magome-juku is a beautifully preserved post town that once served as a key stop on the Nakasendo Trail, an ancient route connecting Kyoto and Tokyo. Its cobblestone streets, traditional wooden buildings, and scenic mountain views evoke the same historical atmosphere as Kyoto’s Higashiyama district, minus the crowds.

Kanazawa, Ishikawa: Art, Gardens, and Samurai History

Often dubbed ‘Little Kyoto,’ Kanazawa offers an array of cultural experiences, from beautifully preserved samurai and geisha districts to one of Japan’s most celebrated gardens, Kenrokuen. The city’s rich history, combined with its thriving contemporary art scene, makes it a perfect destination for those who love Kyoto’s blend of tradition and modernity.

Kawagoe, Saitama: Little Edo on Tokyo’s Doorstep

Just a short train ride from Tokyo, Kawagoe offers a glimpse into Japan’s Edo-period past. Its well-preserved warehouse district, known as Kurazukuri Street, and numerous historical sites provide an experience reminiscent of Kyoto’s traditional charm.

Yanagawa, Fukuoka: A City of Canals

Known as the ‘Venice of Japan,’ Yanagawa is famed for its network of canals that wind through the city. Visitors can enjoy a relaxing boat ride while taking in views of traditional architecture and riverside gardens, reminiscent of Kyoto’s Arashiyama district but with a unique Fukuoka twist.

Takayama, Gifu: A Mountain Retreat

Nestled in the Japanese Alps, Takayama is known for its beautifully preserved old town and traditional craftsmanship. The town’s historic district, lined with wooden merchant houses, feels like a step back in time and offers a quieter alternative to Kyoto’s bustling streets.

Ikoma, Nara: Sacred Peaks and Hidden Temples

While Nara is often associated with its famous deer park and giant Buddha, Ikoma offers a quieter, more spiritual experience. Nestled in the hills, Ikoma is home to hidden temples, shrines, and charming streets that evoke the peaceful ambiance of Kyoto’s northern districts.

Onomichi, Hiroshima: Hillside Temples and Coastal Charm

Nestled along the Seto Inland Sea, Onomichi is a coastal town known for its hillside temples and narrow winding lanes. Onomichi’s relaxed pace, charming old streets, and proximity to the Shimanami Kaido cycling route make it an ideal destination for those seeking Kyoto’s charm with a coastal twist.

Affiliate Disclosure: This post contains affiliate links. By purchasing via these links we may earn a small commission at no additional cost to you. We only promote hotels and experiences that we personally trust. Thank you.

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