Aiwayu Indigo: Preserving Japan Blue in the Foothills of Gifu
In the quiet foothills of Mount Ikeda, Gifu Prefecture, husband-and-wife team Kazuya and Miki Nohara run Aiwayu, a contemporary fashion brand rooted in one of Japan’s oldest dyeing traditions. Here, they practice hondate sho aizome, the fermentation-based method of indigo dyeing that produces the distinctive deep hue known as “Japan Blue.”
More than just a design studio, Aiwayu is part workshop, part philosophy: a place where fabric is dyed in partnership with living microorganisms, and where heritage techniques are preserved through both practice and teaching.
From Fashion Capitals to the Mountains of Gifu
Kazuya Nohara’s journey began in the studios of London’s Central Saint Martins and later at Parsons in New York. Immersed in the high pace of global fashion, he soon felt disillusioned by its relentless cycle of trends and production. A chance encounter with the work of Japanese dyer Koichi Okawa introduced him to the slower, more intentional world of fermentation dyeing. He describes it as “essential clothing production,” a practice that felt rooted, sustainable, and profoundly human. Returning to Japan, Kazuya immersed himself in indigo traditions and soon met Miki, a dyer already working with kakishibu (persimmon tannins). Their shared passion led to Aiwayu, where Miki now tends to the daily dyeing while Kazuya cultivates and cares for the vats.
The Living Dye
At the core of Aiwayu’s practice is the hondate sho aizome method, a process that requires only two ingredients: sukumo(fermented indigo leaves) and wood-ash lye. These simple materials form the foundation for a living microbial culture that enables indigo’s otherwise insoluble pigment to bond with fabric. Most dyers today rely on digital pH meters to monitor conditions. The Noharas, however, work by intuition, using sight, scent, and years of practice. Each vat is given a name, cared for as if it were a family member. “We don’t think of it as dyeing the cloth ourselves,” Miki explains. “We simply prepare the right conditions and the microorganisms do the work.”
Discover all our craft stories here.
A Colour That Breathes
When fabric is dipped into the opaque liquid, it emerges not blue but black. Only when exposed to air does the pigment oxidize, transforming into the unmistakable shade of indigo. Layer by layer, through repeated submersion, rinsing, and drying, the fabric acquires its lasting color, one that resists fading and deepens with wear. Aiwayu’s textiles, made from organic cotton and linen, are not only beautiful but designed to last, their tones evolving slowly over time like the craft itself. The couple also cultivates their own indigo plants in pesticide-free fields nearby, drying and fermenting the leaves for months to create the sukumo.
Start planning your customised itinerary today with our curated Journeys.
Tradition Reinterpreted
Kazuya’s training in fashion design is evident in the silhouettes he creates: vests, tops, and shawls that borrow from traditional Japanese garments but are cut for contemporary life. The straight lines and minimal waste patterning recall a past era of resourcefulness, while the bold hues speak of a modern, global sensibility. This balance of preservation and reinvention is central to Aiwayu’s mission. By reinterpreting indigo for today’s wardrobes, they ensure the craft remains relevant, accessible, and alive. Their work has attracted both local visitors and international attention, with Kazuya often giving talks in English on the cultural and environmental importance of natural dyeing.
Looking for more travel guides and itineraries? Subscribe to the weekly Views from Japan newsletter here.
Preserving a Cultural Legacy
Indigo has long been called the colour of Japan, worn by farmers, samurai, and merchants alike for its practicality and protective qualities. Yet today, true fermentation-based indigo dyeing is practiced by only a handful of artisans across the country. Aiwayu’s work is therefore more than fashion; it is cultural preservation. By cultivating indigo fields, maintaining living vats, and welcoming visitors into their workshop, the Noharas are ensuring that this fragile heritage does not disappear.
Affiliate Disclosure: This post contains affiliate links. By purchasing via these links we may earn a small commission at no additional cost to you. We only promote hotels and experiences that we personally trust. Thank you.
Unlock the Ultimate Views from Japan Digital Bundle
Introducing the ultimate Views from Japan Digital Bundle; a comprehensive, curated travel companion for anyone looking to explore Japan beyond the crowds and standard tourist hotspots. Whether you're planning your first visit or adding unique experiences to a return trip, this bundle offers a seamless, stress-free way to craft your perfect Japan itinerary with interactive maps, detailed guides, and practical advice.
{{Callout Large Journeys}}
.avif)
.avif)
