Hokkaido

Taking up a huge 22% of Japan’s land mass, Hokkaido is vast. From active volcanoes simmering quietly in the mountainside and oceans freezing over in winter’s subzero conditions, to indigenous Ainu culture dating back hundreds of years and some of Japan’s most diverse wildlife – it’s easy to see why Japan’s northern island has attracted nature-lovers and adventurers the world over.

Having travelled to Hokkaido across each season since being in Japan, I was keen to add something new to my latest trip. Hokkaido is huge, and often the best things are discovered when wandering off the beaten path or to far corners and National Parks. Travelling by car gave us the perfect opportunity to explore Japan’s second largest prefecture at our own pace, getting lost and learning more about rural Japanese life or ‘inaka’ (いなか) along the way.

Moving into warmer months, Hokkaido truly starts to come to life; sprawling coastlines alongside rich natural landscapes, steamy hot springs and shinto shrines by the sea, all add to the unique character of the island.

Across three days, we based ourselves in Sapporo, starting the day with iced coffee from Baristart and finishing with some of Hokkaido’s famous miso ramen, soup curry and fresh sushi. We started our journey into Shikotsu-Toya National Park, across to Cape Kamui on the West Coast, all the way through Beiei in the East, and up to the iconic Shosanbetsu Shrine in the North. Along the way, it wasn’t rare to see deer walking by the roadside, also foxes, snakes, sea eagles – and don’t forget to carry a bell in case you encounter a bear.

I think it’s fair to say I recommend Hokkaido to anyone looking to build a Japan itinerary in the future. Each season the island transforms and natural landscapes are a sight to behold. If you are looking for more in-depth guides to Hokkaido, make sure to check out my Shiretoko National Park guide as well as my latest guidebook, Views from Japan.

Where to Stay

Hoshino Resorts Kai Poroto

Set on the edge of Lake Poroto, the 42-room ryokan blurs the line between man-made structures and the forested surroundings. Its unique bathhouses, inspired by ancient Ainu villages, occupy a cone-shaped structure with outdoor and indoor baths. Rooms have striking white birch columns, fireplace inspired tables and Ainu-patterned artworks. Local seafood informs the dinner menu, with dishes such as fragrant daigo nabe, a hotpot teeming with stewed crab and scallops.

Discover the latest rates for Hoshino Resorts Kai Poroto.

Konbu Onsen Tsuruga Bessou Mokuno Sho

Designed as a second home for guests whilst immersed in the surrounding forest, Tsuruga Bessou Mokunosho is located alongside the Niseko Anbetsu River (meaning ‘water flowing under the cliff’ in the indigenous Ainu language). Wooden interiors surround a central fireplace and Ainu-inspired artworks, and guest rooms feature private hot spring baths. The on-site restaurant celebrates Hokkaido as a ‘region of culinary treasure’ featuring seasonal Japanese Kaiseki-style cuisine.

Book Konbu Onsen Tsuruga Bessou Mokuno Sho now.

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Known for its volcanoes, hot springs and natural landscapes, Japan's second-largest island is unlike any other part of the country. I wanted to step away from Japan's busy city stereotypes, while exploring my own personal relationship with Hokkaido. There's an element of serenity in being away from the city and, with it, a different pace of life. People interact with their natural surroundings differently here, and I too felt inspired by a fresh perspective

Being drawn to architecture and design details, I was keen to explore the interaction between natural and manmade elements, and how this relationship can enhance our enjoyment of the landscape. This is most strikingly evident in Japanese architect Tadao Ando's Hill of Buddha shrine. Concealed by an artificial hill in Makomanai Takino Cemetery, the 13.5m-tall concrete statue of Buddha crowned by a halo of sky is a sight to behold.

The landscapes are vast here. Dams appear carved into the hillside, bolstering lakes of epic proportions. Buddha statues stand tall in vast fields of green. Such features represent Japan's push-pull relationship with nature as they battle to contain the elements. Back in Tokyo, I know that I will return to Hokkaido again. I look forward to seeing how the landscapes and colours transform with the seasons, and how these manmade elements respond to the changes in nature.

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The perfect base for exploring Hokkaido’s natural wonders, Sapporo has easy access to mountains, hot springs, and landscapes that feel worlds away. I’ve been fortunate to spend a lot of time in the city over the years, and can confidently say it's one of Japan’s most underrated destinations.

Whether you’re here for the food, culture, or nature, you’ll find the best of all three – without the usual crowds of Tokyo or Kyoto. If you’re looking for something a little different, or exploring Japan on a budget, Sapporo might just be the one. Let’s have a look at a few of my favourite spots!

Susukino

Known as Sapporo's nightlife hub, Susukino pulses with energy well into the night. This district is a maze of neon-lit streets, bustling izakayas, and karaoke bars. Here, you can savour Hokkaido's renowned seafood at casual dining spots or dive into a steaming bowl of local ramen. The area’s vibrant atmosphere is complemented by its impressive architecture and street art, making it a dynamic place to experience Sapporo's modern, urban side.

Sapporo TV Tower

A landmark that punctuates Sapporo’s skyline, the Sapporo TV Tower offers panoramic views of the cityscape and surrounding landscapes. Standing in Odori Park, the tower provides an excellent vantage point to observe Sapporo's orderly layout and the snowy peaks of distant mountains. Ascend to the observation deck for an iconic view of the city’s grid-like streets and, on clear days, snow-covered vistas of Hokkaido’s natural beauty.

Nijo Market

Immerse yourself in Sapporo’s culinary scene at Nijo Market, a bustling hub where the freshest seafood and local produce are on display. The market's lively atmosphere is defined by the sounds of vendors calling out their specialities and the enticing aroma of grilled seafood. Here, you can sample Hokkaido's famed crab and sea urchin or pick up seasonal fruits and vegetables, making it a vibrant spot for food lovers.

Ramen Alley

Ramen Alley, or "Ramen Yokocho," is a top pick for anyone who wants to indulge in the local speciality, miso ramen. This narrow, bustling alleyway is lined with small, family-run ramen shops, each with its own secret recipe. The rich, aromatic broths and perfectly chewy noodles make it a paradise for ramen enthusiasts. The alley’s cosy, intimate setting allows you to enjoy a bowl of piping hot ramen while mingling with locals and fellow travellers.

Nakajima Park

Nakajima Park is a serene escape in the heart of Sapporo. Spanning over 70 hectares, the park features expansive lawns, tranquil ponds, and beautifully landscaped gardens. It’s an ideal spot for a leisurely stroll, a relaxing picnic, or a boat ride on the park’s pond. During the cherry blossom season, the park transforms into a sea of pink, offering a picturesque setting for both casual visitors and dedicated photographers.

Morenuma Park

Designed by renowned landscape architect Isamu Noguchi, Morenuma Park is a testament to innovative design and natural beauty. The park’s unique features include expansive open spaces, artistic sculptures, and a stunningly landscaped environment that seamlessly blends with Hokkaido’s natural scenery. The park’s large, rolling hills and reflective ponds provide ample space for outdoor activities and contemplative walks.

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Sapporo Art Park

For art enthusiasts, Sapporo Art Park offers a captivating experience with its extensive collection of contemporary sculptures and artworks. The park is set in a lush natural setting, integrating art with the environment. Visitors can explore outdoor installations scattered throughout the park’s vast grounds or visit the indoor galleries to view rotating exhibitions.

Sapporo Fushimi Inari Shrine

While not to be confused with Kyoto’s famous Fushimi Inari Shrine, Sapporo’s version offers its own charm. This shrine, located in the Fushimi area, features striking torii gates and a peaceful, wooded setting. The quieter atmosphere compared to its Kyoto counterpart provides a more serene and introspective visit, where you can enjoy the spiritual ambiance and scenic surroundings.

Stay

The Knot Sapporo
In the heart of Sapporo’s vibrant Susukino district, The Knot Sapporo reflects the city’s rich history and connection to its surrounding landscape, where natural spring water once fueled its growth. Guests are welcomed into a stylish lounge that combines the warmth of Hokkaido’s locally-sourced materials with avant-garde urban design. Here, you can unwind by the fireplace or enjoy the lively ambiance created by drinks and music. With stunning views of the distant mountains and the bustling nightlife, The Knot Sapporo offers a sophisticated retreat that bridges nature and city life.

Best Time to Visit
Sapporo is a year-round destination, but the best time to visit largely depends on your interests. Winter (December to February) is ideal for enjoying the city's renowned snow festival and skiing opportunities. Spring (March to May) offers beautiful cherry blossoms and mild temperatures, while summer (June to August) is perfect for exploring outdoor attractions. Autumn (September to November) provides a stunning display of autumn foliage and cooler weather.

Getting Around
Upon arrival at New Chitose Airport, you have several options to reach the city centre. The JR Airport Express trains offer a swift journey, taking about 40 minutes to Sapporo Station. Navigating Sapporo is straightforward, with an efficient public transportation system that includes subways, buses, and trams. The city’s well-planned layout makes it easy to explore on foot or by bike, especially in the central areas. For longer distances or day trips outside the city, the JR (Japan Rail) trains provide convenient

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As Japan welcomes 2025, we invite you to embrace travel with the mindfulness and intentionality. Much like how Shōgatsu encourages preparation, gratitude, and reflection, this year offers a chance to venture off the beaten track, slow down, and discover places that lie beyond the usual tourist trails.

Shōgatsu: A New Year in Japan

Every January, Japan celebrates Shōgatsu, marking the beginning of a new calendar year. Shōgatsu is about creating a clean slate – both physically and mentally – to welcome the year ahead with intention. Homes are thoroughly cleaned, symbolic soba and mochi are prepared, and families gather to reflect and give thanks.

This got me thinking: what if we applied these principles, not just for our daily lives, but for the way we travel? Could we approach travel with the same sense of mindfulness and purpose? From new cultural landmarks to serene retreats, here’s your guide to exploring Japan more deeply in 2025.

Setouchi: Art, Nature & Award-Winning Design

Known for its blend of natural beauty and contemporary art, the Setouchi Triennale returns in 2025. Spend the night at Simose Art Garden Villa, aka the world’s most beautiful museum, to experience world-class art and architecture. Naoshima, already renowned as a hub for art, will unveil the much-anticipated New Museum of Art, designed by Tadao Ando.

Hokkaido: Marking 60 Years of Natural Wonders

As we yearn for the outdoors and remote experiences, Hokkaido will continue to draw attention through 2025. Celebrating the 60th anniversary of UNESCO-recognised Shiretoko National Park, winter offers the chance to witness the drift ice phenomenon, while the newly opened Hokkaido East Trail beckons adventurers looking for remote hiking experiences.

Onomichi: A Slice of Timeless Elegance

In Onomichi, Azumi Setoda reimagines the art of hospitality, blending sleek modern design with the timeless spirit of the Setouchi region. This boutique hotel offers travellers a window into Japan’s traditional ryokan culture, while the surrounding islands are perfect for cycling, slow exploration, and soaking in the tranquil coastal scenery.

Miyakojima: Tropical Bliss with a Purpose

This year, Miyakojima, part of Okinawa’s sun-soaked islands, makes its mark with the opening of the Rosewood Miyakojima resort. Beyond its pristine beaches and crystal-clear waters, the island offers intentional, immersive exploration. Visit local villages, where you’ll find independent shops selling handmade crafts and island specialties, from Ryukyu textiles to sweet potato-based delicacies.

Beppu: Japan’s Hot Spring Capital

Beppu, Oita, offers a perfect retreat for slow travel, blending hot spring healing with design and crafts. Known as Japan’s hot spring capital, Beppu’s baths provide a restorative experience. Architectural highlights like Kengo Kuma’s Comico Art Museum and the city’s celebrated bamboo craft traditions add a cultural dimension, making it more than just a wellness destination

Aomori: Tradition, Art, and Seasonal Splendor

Aomori combines traditional festivals, modern art, and unspoiled natural beauty – making it a perfect match for those seeking slower, more purposeful exploration in 2025. The iconic Nebuta Festival parades through the streets each August, and the newly opened Tsugaru train route, winds through rural countryside, offering a picturesque way to experience the changing seasons.

Fukui: New Shinkansen Gateway to Coastal Charms

With the brand new Hokuriku Shinkansen extension, Fukui is more accessible than ever. Beyond visiting iconic sites like Eiheiji Temple or the dramatic Tojinbo Cliffs, this is a chance to venture into smaller coastal towns and remote countryside villages like Mikuni and Ikeda. Stay longer, connect with locals, and appreciate the simple beauty of this often-overlooked region.

Travel Beyond the Expected

In 2025, travel with purpose – venture further afield than the masses and explore beyond the usual Golden Triangle of Tokyo, Kyoto, and Osaka. Whether it’s the cedar forests of Yakushima, the remote ryokans of Wakayama, or the serene art galleries of Aomori, there’s a world of experiences waiting to be uncovered.

Affiliate Disclosure: Please note this post may contain affiliate links. By purchasing via these links, I may earn a small commission at no additional cost to you. It’s a big help to keep this site up and running and I only promote products and services that I personally use and trust. Thanks!

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My work as a travel writer and photographer has led me to collaborate with some of the world’s leading hotel brands. But beyond the big names, I’ve checked into places you wouldn’t usually find in a magazine, where hospitality isn’t measured by thread counts or star ratings, but by a sense of place and culture.

Many people visiting Japan for the first time (or anywhere in the world) often book hotels based on surface-level factors, such as price or Instagram aesthetics, but just beyond these are unique hotels that can become, sometimes, more memorable than the journey itself. Here’s what to look for when booking your accommodation in Japan and why you should look beyond what you think you know about hotels.

1. More Remote, More Rewarding

The best hotel stays often come from getting off the beaten path and Japan has a whole range of beautiful remote stays that fit the bill. In scenic Toyama lies Rakudo-An, set in the beautiful and remote Tonami Plain, which is a hotel consisting of just three rooms inside a century-old farmhouse. Inside the Azumadachi farmhouse, traditional silks and wood take centre stage, reflective of the talented craftspeople who live nearby.

2. Eco-Conscious Travel is No Longer a Niche

Sustainability is much more than just a trend; it’s the future of hospitality and both visitors and properties should be prioritising it. On Awaji Island, Zenbo Seinei is just one example of how Japanese hotels do sustainability right. The hotel is centred around a long wooden platform that melts into the surrounding forest, while Hida furniture, draws on the art of traditional Japanese crafts and furniture making. Stay for dinner and you’ll find a menu using local, seasonal ingredients and no animal products, strengthening their sustainability further.

3. Slowing Down: The Hotel as a Destination

The best hotels are a destination in themselves, encouraging you to slow down and providing surroundings, aesthetics or activities that fill your time. This can most often be found in Japan’s beautiful ryokans - one of my favourites is Hoshino Resorts Kai Poroto on the banks of Lake Poroto where exceptional design makes it somewhere you would travel simply to experience it. It features stunning bathhouses inspired by ancient Ainu villages, while rooms take in the surroundings through floor-to-ceiling windows, offering perfect landscape views when the colours of autumn come out.

4. Food as the Heart of a Stay

For travellers who have explored surface level Japan, taking things deeper by diving into its culture and gastronomy will enrich any return trip. At Banyan Tree Higashiyama in Kyoto, every bite is a culinary journey. Expect authentic dishes that use local, seasonal ingredients. Guests are part of the cooking process with a Japanese kaiseki menu where the chef prepares dishes at your tableside grill, while even the hotel bar, Bar Ryozen, offers the chance to taste sake while listening to the history of the rice used to craft it.

5. The Magic of Family-Run Stays

Five-star hospitality is great, but there’s nothing quite like the homeliness of a family-run stay. In Fukuoka, Tachibana Ohana combines grandeur, luxury and local heritage in just 20 rooms designed with traditional Japanese aesthetics. Everything immerses you in the history of the surrounding area and the hotel feels like a still-standing extension of olden-day Japan, with authentic interiors and locally sourced delicacies served in their restaurant. The warmth of staff and locals here feels genuine, which is all part of the magic of opting for local stays.

6. Aim Small: The Charm of Boutique Hotels

Personalised service, thoughtful design and a sense of place shine through in boutique hotels like Azumi Setoda, a heritage family estate near Hiroshima. The beautifully designed hotel is one of Japan’s most unique ryokans, mixing sleek contemporary interiors with traditional flair and materials. Everything is highly personalised and led by local knowledge, from the dining, which uses vegetables from Setoda and other areas in the Setouchi region, to the experiences, which range from learning about Fukuyama denim to a lemon harvest tour.

7. Price Doesn’t Always Equal Experience

An expensive price tag won’t always get you the best experience. Take Hostel Saruya in Fujiyoshida as a prime example: it’s in an unmatched location at the foot of Mount Fuji, but expensive add-ons aren’t the aim here. The converted 1940s Japanese townhouse is split across two separate buildings, and mixes open plan living, an artist residency programme and rustic elements to create a warm, homely feel. If you’re beginning a journey with a trip to Mount Fuji, this is a great starting point for discovering Japan’s art scene.

8. Where Culture and Hospitality Intersect

Culture is a key part of any hotel stay, particularly in a country like Japan where culture and tradition form the basis for its entire ethos. In Fukui Prefecture, Hakujukan provides this in spades, offering every guest a ‘Zen concierge’ and the chance to partake in authentic experiences like trying Buddhist cuisine and monastery meditation at the nearby Eiheiji Temple. Every experience is tailored to connect you with the area’s culture and spirituality, making you feel like part of the community. Each morning, you’ll meditate with monks and burn incense, during the day guests can join sutra-copying classes or lectures, and evenings bring delicious shojin ryori, the vegetarian cuisine eaten in temples.

9. Service Over Everything

A good stay usually comes back to one key ingredient: good service. Even if you stay somewhere that doesn’t match what you quite expected, you’ll remember the warm or attentiveness of the service. For a true taste of service that is almost intuitive, The Shinmonzen in Kyoto is the place to stay. Aside from being one of Kyoto’s most unique design hotels, The Shinmonzen makes you feel remembered, thanks to private experiences and personalised touches, whether you want to book a trip to the spa or take a private rickshaw around town - they’ll know your name, what you like and always go the extra mile.

10. Why Design Matters More Than Ever

Well-thought-out architecture and unique interiors are the cornerstone of Japanese hotels and can also shape how we experience a place. Some of Japan’s innovative hotels draw the eye inwards, towards handcrafted furniture and in-house experiences, while others showcase the great outdoors through reflection and unusual structures. Hiroshima’s Simose Art Garden Villa, designed by Shigeru Ban, maximises natural light and frames views of the surrounding gardens, creating a sense of serenity for guests. These surroundings create and inside-outside feel: water, sky, stone and wood appear outside in the nearby basin, forests and mountain, but also inside in the bright, sleek villas. Reflections feature heavily, in the museum entrance hall and in their Emile Gallé's Garden, intended to amplify the scenery of the Seto Inland Sea.

Affiliate Disclosure: This post contains affiliate links. By purchasing via these links we may earn a small commission at no additional cost to you. We only promote hotels and experiences that we personally trust. Thank you.

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